Day 10: Van Horn to Marfa, TX (76 miles) Because of the wind, we chose to deviate from the course this morning taking 90 south instead of I-10 to Kent. It was still cold and foggy when we left and I got a great picture of Curt riding along, smoking a cigar, with his nose dripping. At about 20 miles into it I had a front flat. It was a quick repair and we continued on for another 30 minutes. I was getting hot so we both decided to strip off our rain jackets. While we were stopped, a young couple in a grey VW bug with a road bike on top stopped to make sure we were okay. It turned out the girl was from Alpine, was a triathelete, and both seemed genuinely interested in our trip and bikes. At about 35 miles after Van Horn, I rolled up on the strangest art exhibit I have ever seen. In the middle of a flat, dry, uninhabited prairie is a small building with a plate glass front displaying Prada shoes and purses. Nothing for sale, just an art display. Of course, we got some pics. We ate some power bars since there was no where to eat lunch. It took hours to pass a single ranch (Ryan). I read that this area is where Dallas was filmed and Marfa has some strange reoccurring light phenomenon. Today was Easter Sunday and I nearly forgot! I scared up a buck antelope and put on a burst of speed, fumbling for my camera, as it ran along a fence-line. I hope I caught it on the digital. There were herds of antelope along the route. A vicious headwind hit us 5 miles from Marfa. We really had to dig down to reach town, wolfed a hot, greasy meal at DQ, and checked into the Riatta motel with 608 miles under our belts.
Day 11: Marfa to Alpine, TX (26 miles) You're probably wondering about the measly 27 miles, huh? Okay, here's how this day went: We left Marfa without breakfast and in a hurry to beat the expected wind. We had a short climb and then a drop through a beautiful, rocky canyon. I saw my first Javelina, dead of the road, and scared two Golden Eagles from a roadside tree. I wanted to see how fast I could push the loaded Koga today and actually hit 27 mph on the flat. Arriving in Alpine, I asked about a good restaurant for brunch and was directed to Mc Goo's. While we ate we talked to the owner, Joe Torres, who insisted that we should see Big Bend National Park (108 miles away). We told him we didn't have time on this trip, and he insisted that we borrow his new Camry. Curt and I knew we had some extra time since Debbie is coming into Austin after we will arrive so we gladly accepted the generous offer. What a great guy! I did the driving; Curt did the dozing. We saw Chisos Canyon, Panther Junction, all the cactus flowers in bloom, and snapped plenty of pics. We left Joe two 18 packs of Coors Longnecks on the seat(his son's girlfriend said it was his favorite), filled the tank, and returned the car to his restaurant. I'm sitting at the computer in the Lobo bar in Alpine where there is no shortage of friendly folks!
Monday, April 9, 2007
Friday, April 6, 2007
Trip Journal Post 2: Day 5-9
Day 5: Silver City to Arrey, NM (83 miles) We left Silver City, NM pedaling deep rolling hills until it turned into a gradual climb into the foothills. The highest mountain pass on the entire Southern Tier was just ahead. The ascent was broken up by some very fast downhills where we repeatedly lost hard earned elevation gains. I hung with Curt throughout all the climbs today. I'm getting stronger each day. We topped Emory Pass (8228') about noon and FLEW the 19 miles down to Hillsboro. The only restaurant flipped the closed sign at our approach so it was a bag of chips only. There was a new place soon to open and the owner gave us a tour of a beautifully renovated adobe motel and restaurant. I don't recall the name, but it will be a great place to stay for future cyclists and she has already submitted her info to Adventure Cycling. We came out of that valley into a headwind and pushed our way to the state campgrounds along the Rio Grande in Arrey, NM. We had a great time visiting with all the curious locals in the Arrey Cafe for both dinner and breakfast. We pitched camp on a pile of Goatheads that filled my shoes, and threatened to flatten both tires and sleeping pads.
Day 6: Arrey, NM to Las Cruces, NM (57 miles) The sunny, warm weather continued to hold with winds out of the south at 8-12 mph. I awoke to a front flat (not Goatheads, some steel belts wire instead) which I fixed in short order. We finally started at around 0900; the wind started at 1100 and there wasn't anything until Las Cruces so we pushed on. We made Cruces at 1430 and checked into a cheap but very comfortable motel, the Teakwood. My rearend is nearly raw with no relief in sight! If this continues I won't be able to ride much longer. I WILL be replacing this seat with a Brooks in the future.
Day 7: Las Cruces, NM to Fabens, TX. (78 miles) The Lord blessed me with a miracle; My rearend recovered during the night and I was easily able to complete the mileage today. Today was miles of well-manicured Pecan orchards and cotton fields. We reached El Paso at lunchtime, crossing into Texas, but without a photo since there wasn't a border sign. Yesterday I developed a rattling noise somewhere near my bottom bracket. Since my rear cassette came apart on the last training ride, I've been nervous. (This intermittent noise is only while under pressure on the right-side pedal down stroke.) Chris worked on my bike immediately. He wasn't able to locate the problem, but, since he pulled it apart, it's gone. We fooled around in El Paso for 2 hours and headed to Fabens, TX. where we checked into a motel and, as usual, went to bed early and tired.
Day 8: Fabens to Van Horn, TX (65 miles riding, 33 more as passengers!) Trip total is over 500 miles.) We were shooting for 98 miles today, hoping to make up for some mileage shortages on prior days. We left the motel at 0715, skipping breakfast to put in the pedal time.The wind was not going to cooperate though. It started out at 8 mph, but quickly kicked up to 20 to Fort Hancock, and eventually 30 mph to Sierra Blanca, slowing us to a crawl. (Curt has the roughest time in the wind because of his lighter weight.) We ate lunch in a dumpy restaurant and considered our problem. The wind nearly stopped our progress and the temperature was beginning to drop. I suggested that we hitch a ride to Van Horn as resources in Sierra Blanca were slim and seedy. We rolled across the street to a Chevron, I asked a guy that had just pulled up in a pickup, and he took us east for an additional 33 miles.
Day 9: Van Horn, TX (0 miles) We had to take a day off here in Van Horn. We awoke to rain and 15 mph NE winds which continues as I type. The temperature according to Accuweather is Real Feel of 21 degrees because of the wind chill. Apparently Texas, along with much of the country is having a return of winter weather. Guess we will rest up and regroup for the road ahead. There are few services for next few days so it's probably just as well. The only services here are a dollar store, bars, motels, and restaurants. I'm not sure what keeps towns like Van Horn alive. The weather forecast for tomorrow shows warmer temps but higher winds. If that is accurate, we will deviate from the established route, turning south on 90, to avoid the direct head wind and reevaluate at Alpine, TX. In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood, "improvise, adapt, overcome."
Mind: Most of the time I'm scanning the road for obstacles and for terrain changes ahead. Much of the time is also spent maintaining a consistent level of exertion and even pace. I often catch myself singing the same song repeatedly, kinda like a mantra. It's amazing the amount of lyrics to dumb songs that I can remember. So much for deep thinking! I worry about how things are going at home and miss Tracy and the boys. Waxing philosophical yesterday, I considered how much this trip is like life-I expect the hills to be hard, but even the downhills are difficult when a strong wind is in your face.
Body: My conditioning is improving daily. I doubt that I have lost a single pound unless peeling skin counts. I sheared my hair off before the start and the sun has burnt right through the holes in the helmet so even my head in peeling. Although my legs are tired at days end, they recover quickly. My rearend is bruised and welted, but slowly recovering. Both of us have had an odd burning sensation in the balls of our left feet, especially after long upgrades.
Soul: We have seen a wide variety of beautiful country in the last week. It's hard to imagine anything but the wonder of God's creation out here. I feel His presence giving us safe passage.
Day 6: Arrey, NM to Las Cruces, NM (57 miles) The sunny, warm weather continued to hold with winds out of the south at 8-12 mph. I awoke to a front flat (not Goatheads, some steel belts wire instead) which I fixed in short order. We finally started at around 0900; the wind started at 1100 and there wasn't anything until Las Cruces so we pushed on. We made Cruces at 1430 and checked into a cheap but very comfortable motel, the Teakwood. My rearend is nearly raw with no relief in sight! If this continues I won't be able to ride much longer. I WILL be replacing this seat with a Brooks in the future.
Day 7: Las Cruces, NM to Fabens, TX. (78 miles) The Lord blessed me with a miracle; My rearend recovered during the night and I was easily able to complete the mileage today. Today was miles of well-manicured Pecan orchards and cotton fields. We reached El Paso at lunchtime, crossing into Texas, but without a photo since there wasn't a border sign. Yesterday I developed a rattling noise somewhere near my bottom bracket. Since my rear cassette came apart on the last training ride, I've been nervous. (This intermittent noise is only while under pressure on the right-side pedal down stroke.) Chris worked on my bike immediately. He wasn't able to locate the problem, but, since he pulled it apart, it's gone. We fooled around in El Paso for 2 hours and headed to Fabens, TX. where we checked into a motel and, as usual, went to bed early and tired.
Day 8: Fabens to Van Horn, TX (65 miles riding, 33 more as passengers!) Trip total is over 500 miles.) We were shooting for 98 miles today, hoping to make up for some mileage shortages on prior days. We left the motel at 0715, skipping breakfast to put in the pedal time.The wind was not going to cooperate though. It started out at 8 mph, but quickly kicked up to 20 to Fort Hancock, and eventually 30 mph to Sierra Blanca, slowing us to a crawl. (Curt has the roughest time in the wind because of his lighter weight.) We ate lunch in a dumpy restaurant and considered our problem. The wind nearly stopped our progress and the temperature was beginning to drop. I suggested that we hitch a ride to Van Horn as resources in Sierra Blanca were slim and seedy. We rolled across the street to a Chevron, I asked a guy that had just pulled up in a pickup, and he took us east for an additional 33 miles.
Day 9: Van Horn, TX (0 miles) We had to take a day off here in Van Horn. We awoke to rain and 15 mph NE winds which continues as I type. The temperature according to Accuweather is Real Feel of 21 degrees because of the wind chill. Apparently Texas, along with much of the country is having a return of winter weather. Guess we will rest up and regroup for the road ahead. There are few services for next few days so it's probably just as well. The only services here are a dollar store, bars, motels, and restaurants. I'm not sure what keeps towns like Van Horn alive. The weather forecast for tomorrow shows warmer temps but higher winds. If that is accurate, we will deviate from the established route, turning south on 90, to avoid the direct head wind and reevaluate at Alpine, TX. In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood, "improvise, adapt, overcome."
Mind: Most of the time I'm scanning the road for obstacles and for terrain changes ahead. Much of the time is also spent maintaining a consistent level of exertion and even pace. I often catch myself singing the same song repeatedly, kinda like a mantra. It's amazing the amount of lyrics to dumb songs that I can remember. So much for deep thinking! I worry about how things are going at home and miss Tracy and the boys. Waxing philosophical yesterday, I considered how much this trip is like life-I expect the hills to be hard, but even the downhills are difficult when a strong wind is in your face.
Body: My conditioning is improving daily. I doubt that I have lost a single pound unless peeling skin counts. I sheared my hair off before the start and the sun has burnt right through the holes in the helmet so even my head in peeling. Although my legs are tired at days end, they recover quickly. My rearend is bruised and welted, but slowly recovering. Both of us have had an odd burning sensation in the balls of our left feet, especially after long upgrades.
Soul: We have seen a wide variety of beautiful country in the last week. It's hard to imagine anything but the wonder of God's creation out here. I feel His presence giving us safe passage.
Monday, April 2, 2007
Trip Journal Post 1: Day 1-4
Day 1: Apache Junction to Peridot, AZ. (78 miles) At the moment I'm sitting in a motel lobby in Silver City, New Mexico. We left Apache Junction, Az on March 30th, 2007 after driving down the previous evening. We met my Uncle Dan Rodgers and family for dinner and they also came to see us off the following morning. With their encouragement and some final photos, we sailed eastward. The climb to Globe was easier than expected, but there was an element of terror because of the narrow bridges, no shoulders, and a tunnel with an uphill climb! Aside from that it was a fantastic day of riding. We logged 78 miles and "gorilla" camped along the San Carlos river near Peridot, Az. During the night ice formed on the top of my sleeping bag and we learned the following morning that it had dipped well below freezing. (We also learned that it's better to pitch the tents, especially when there's a full moon. It was like sleeping under a stadium light!)
Day 2: Peridot to Thatcher (65 miles) We met an elderly English couple, the Spiveys, at the grocery store in Peridot. Their bikes were 30 years old or older and their combined luggage was less than either ONE of ours! They are doing the Southern Tier and have done many other long distance tours. That evening Curt holed up to watch the final four college basketball at the motel; I went exploring with an unloaded bike and did my laundry in Safford, Az.
Day 3: Thatcher to Buckhorn (80 miles) We overtook the Spiveys during the climb to a 4800' pass and rode with them through the fast descent into 3 Way, Az. It was truly a pleasure visiting with them, but I fear it will be our last as they're traveling at a more leisurely pace. They were scheduled to camp at 3 Way so, after lunch, we parted company and began the strenuous climb to a 6300' pass. I watched Curt recede into the distance and settled into the most grueling climb so far. I finally reached the top to find Curt there waiting. He had finished his final water bottle so I split my last one and we hoped for water ahead in Mule Creek, 12 miles away. Somewhere in between we crossed the state line into New Mexico, where we took advantage of a photo opportunity. At Mule Creek we had to sneak around a unoccupied house to get water from a hose bib. With full bottles we pushed the last 19 miles to Buckhorn, just skidding in before dark. We wolfed down pizza at the grocery store and set up camp under the full moon. Yes, I learned my lesson and pitched a tent. We met three more travelers going east at the campground but they are staying in Silver City, NM for a rest day.
Day 4: Buckhorn to Silver City (37 Miles) Today was to be considered a recovery ride after yesterdays' tough course. We must be prepared for the most difficult climb on the entire Southern Tier, Emery Pass (8228') tomorrow. Today turned out to be harder than we expected with rolling hills all the way into Silver City, NM. Curt was snoozing as I left to make this entry. I will continue to update as the opportunity arises.
Day 2: Peridot to Thatcher (65 miles) We met an elderly English couple, the Spiveys, at the grocery store in Peridot. Their bikes were 30 years old or older and their combined luggage was less than either ONE of ours! They are doing the Southern Tier and have done many other long distance tours. That evening Curt holed up to watch the final four college basketball at the motel; I went exploring with an unloaded bike and did my laundry in Safford, Az.
Day 3: Thatcher to Buckhorn (80 miles) We overtook the Spiveys during the climb to a 4800' pass and rode with them through the fast descent into 3 Way, Az. It was truly a pleasure visiting with them, but I fear it will be our last as they're traveling at a more leisurely pace. They were scheduled to camp at 3 Way so, after lunch, we parted company and began the strenuous climb to a 6300' pass. I watched Curt recede into the distance and settled into the most grueling climb so far. I finally reached the top to find Curt there waiting. He had finished his final water bottle so I split my last one and we hoped for water ahead in Mule Creek, 12 miles away. Somewhere in between we crossed the state line into New Mexico, where we took advantage of a photo opportunity. At Mule Creek we had to sneak around a unoccupied house to get water from a hose bib. With full bottles we pushed the last 19 miles to Buckhorn, just skidding in before dark. We wolfed down pizza at the grocery store and set up camp under the full moon. Yes, I learned my lesson and pitched a tent. We met three more travelers going east at the campground but they are staying in Silver City, NM for a rest day.
Day 4: Buckhorn to Silver City (37 Miles) Today was to be considered a recovery ride after yesterdays' tough course. We must be prepared for the most difficult climb on the entire Southern Tier, Emery Pass (8228') tomorrow. Today turned out to be harder than we expected with rolling hills all the way into Silver City, NM. Curt was snoozing as I left to make this entry. I will continue to update as the opportunity arises.
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
The Final Trip List
This is by no means a complete list for any trek, but it contains the items I have chosen to take on this one.
Clothes: sun/rain hat, rain jacket, rain pants, heavy shirt, tights, 2 l/s shirts, 2 jerseys, 3 shorts, 1 sleeveless shirt, 1 convertible pant, 3 sox, glove liners, beanie cap, extra shoes, shower shoes, toiletries.
Camp stuff: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, headlamp, stove, cook pot, spoon, fork, cup, fuel cannister(s), matches, four meals.
Tools: chain lube, 2 spare tubes, patch kit, extra tire, electrical tape, lock tite, cresent wrench spoke wrench, mulitple Allen wrenches, chain tool, pedal and hub wrench, needle nose pliers, spare cables. spare spokes.
Bike stuff: cable lock, head light, spare batteries, bungee cords, helmet, 2 headsweats, gloves, sunglasses, 3 water bottles, 6 energy bars.
Personal stuff: medications, glasses, first aid kit, GPS, maps, journals, cell phone, camera, pocket knife, H2O purification tablets, chapstick, sunscreen, address book, credit cards, some cash, phone card
Clothes: sun/rain hat, rain jacket, rain pants, heavy shirt, tights, 2 l/s shirts, 2 jerseys, 3 shorts, 1 sleeveless shirt, 1 convertible pant, 3 sox, glove liners, beanie cap, extra shoes, shower shoes, toiletries.
Camp stuff: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, headlamp, stove, cook pot, spoon, fork, cup, fuel cannister(s), matches, four meals.
Tools: chain lube, 2 spare tubes, patch kit, extra tire, electrical tape, lock tite, cresent wrench spoke wrench, mulitple Allen wrenches, chain tool, pedal and hub wrench, needle nose pliers, spare cables. spare spokes.
Bike stuff: cable lock, head light, spare batteries, bungee cords, helmet, 2 headsweats, gloves, sunglasses, 3 water bottles, 6 energy bars.
Personal stuff: medications, glasses, first aid kit, GPS, maps, journals, cell phone, camera, pocket knife, H2O purification tablets, chapstick, sunscreen, address book, credit cards, some cash, phone card
Thursday, March 8, 2007
On Bike Selection
Touring bikes can come in many flavors. When I started surfing the Net for touring bikes the Ken Kifer, Downtheroad, and, eventually, the Commuter Bike sites led to my selection of the Koga World Traveller. One of the main reasons was it's reliability and the possibility of several long treks in the next few years. I wanted a solid bike, designed specifically for touring, outfitted with bullet-proof components. The Koga fit that bill. It has longer chainstays allowing your feet ample room to rotate on the crank without hitting the panniers. Eric Schwartz, owner of the Commuter bikes in Santa Barbara, was truly a pleasure to work with and made even made the drive there well worth the effort. Curt and I drove down to get fitted for the Koga's and I was astonished at the amount of time both Eric and James spent orienting us with the bikes and fine tuning them. I would highly recommend them for any serious bike purchases and intend to use them for any of my own. Eric has continued to be a terrific support throughout the planning stages of this trek. For instance, Curt's bike was run over and Eric was able to send a replacement fork and front Tubus rack immediately so our training schedule was barely effected. He has offered to overnight any parts we may need on the voyage as well. I've purchased many bicycles over the years and I can say that I've never received that quality of service. I've added a link to the Commuter Bikes.
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Tips on Our Training
Preparing for this tour has been challenging in many ways, training being one of the most important. Curt and I picked up the bikes in December and began with hour long sessions. Both of us were already aerobically fit. By early January we were biking around an hour and a half every other day. At the mid-point we added full panniers to acclimate to the increased demands of touring. By the end of the month, we were biking either to or from Mesquite (35 miles) and threw in a trip to Vegas a couple times (60 miles). In February we continued to rapidly increase the distance and slowly increase the average speed, weather permitting. Biking for several hours became the norm and as the end of the month approached, the trips to Vegas and to Mesquite and back increased, as did our speed. We included one camping voyage to Zion, parking in Bloomington, Utah and pushed for 50 miles until we reached the park entrance. I was surprised at the costs we incurred in that two day trip ( $25 camping fee, $12 Zion Park entrance fee, dinner was $25, breakfast $11, two lunches totaling $12, misc. $3). March has been more of the same. We have tried to ride two days consecutively and then take a rest day. Because of two different schedules that hasn't always been the case, but I'm confident we are ready for the beginning of this adventure. I was spent early in the training, especially after a 60 miler. Not anymore though. Some conditioning took place along the way; the rest will come during the ride.
Saturday, March 3, 2007
On Saddle Sores
I made my most important and quite possibly my final purchase for the trip last night. Although I have read a great deal of information on bike touring over the last couple months, little has mentioned the exceedingly important impact of the bike seat on the tender points of contact on your backside. My Koga World Traveller comes standard with a stiff Brooks leather saddle. Rumor has it that once "broken in", it's quite comfortable. Eric Schwartz, owner of the Commuter Bike Shop in Santa Barbara, provided another option in the Selle SMP, which seemed to fit immediately.There is, however, no replacement for accumulated saddle time, and, of equal importance, adequate bike shorts. Personally, I find the road bike style shorts embarrassing and somewhat offensive to the general public; mountain bike style have a looser fit and would blend easier for touring purposes, but I haven't found any that provide the snug fit and padding necessary to endure long hours in the saddle. Defeated by extreme discomfort, the problem led me back to lycra Trek road shorts with plenty of chamois, supplemented by Chamois Butter to reduce abrasion when (not if) I can no longer tolerate the agony. I recommend the very best shorts you can find, consider it money well spent, and take a light pair of outer shorts if you can't tolerate the public exposure!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
