Trip Journal Post 6: Days 21-28

Day 21: Bastop to Sommersville Lake, TX. (76 miles) Curt was still lounging in bed as I left this morning, cycling slowly through the dense fog covering the old historic district of Bastrop. It was just beginning to lift as I entered Bastrop State Park, a real gem along this route! It was breathtakingly beautiful for not only the serene, dense pine forest but the short steep climbs. The sun barely penetrates to the secondary growth on the forest floor, and my arms and legs are damp as I pedal through the hundreds of strands of spider webs crossing the road. Somewhere along the road I saw an unencumbered road biker coming up behind. As he passed me on a short, flat section, I kicked it up a notch and caught him on the next steep hill. He looked to be in good shape, but I was having a testosterone moment. I passed him on the steep ascent and held him off for the next 3 miles. I last saw him at the base of another steep section as he stopped to catch his breath. I pushed a little harder, gaining momentum on a downhill, when a doe burst from the bushes, cutting crossed my path only 15' away. It would've been a tragic but humorous end to the trip...I slowed down, started snapping some pictures, and glided through Buescher State Park too. The humidity is so high here that it's the first time I've seen Spanish Moss hanging on the trees. Later I had dinner in Burton where I met a white Rastafarian sitting inside the only open cafe. He's traveling west on a Horizon incumbent and has a drop foot! Sheesh, he makes me feel like I'm just fooling around. He said he didn't talk much but never stopped telling odd, sniper kill stories from Vietnam throughout the entire meal. I gladly said goodbye and continued on to Sommersville Lake. It was 6 miles out of the way, but I enjoyed a free shower and "gorilla" camped in a field, sleeping clean and comfortable in my tent until sunrise.
Day 22: Sommerville Lake to Plumb, TX. (88m) I awoke to another wet, foggy morning. The tent was drenched as I repacked it and my laundry was even wetter. I had breakfast at an intersection gas station and visited with a fisherman from nearby Lake Conroe. I took several pics on the way to Navasota, as I took the Texas Independence Trail east. At Navasota I dried my clothes at a laundromat and enjoyed a Pizza Hut buffet. Afterward was the Sam Houston National Recreation Area. Lake Conroe is within it's border and there must be some great mountain bike trails, as I passed not less than 6 bike crossing signs along the highway. Earlier I had seen a aerial photo of an alligator swimming across a lake with a full sized doe in it's mouth that was supposedly taken at Lake Conroe! As I was riding along I heard some rustling in the grass along the shoulder of the road and stopped to investigate. It turned out to be three baby Armadillos cavorting in a mud hole and they never even heard me as I snuck up on them with the camera. I pushed on to New Waverly where I stopped for dinner at the New Waverly House. I was still hungry after dinner so they gave me an extra piece on peach pie for the road. There wasn't anywhere close to stay so I slugged out 13 more miles until I saw an RV park in Plumb. It was a great place to stay, with big, clean showers, a well-stocked, common game room, and hot tub. I'm glad I didn't miss it. They were a great example of what bike tourers need..and all for only $10!
Day 23: Plumb to Kountze, TX. (71 m) Dense fog and wet conditions again this morning. I think I'm coming down with the same cold Curt caught. I had to dry my clothes in the clubhouse and didn't get out of there until after 10am. I had some energy bars for breakfast and lunch in Shepard. It was a hard push into Kountze against 8-10mph winds. Dinner was a Cajun buffet so I tried all the dishes. Gumbo is still my favorite. The patrons and the employees were all very friendly and I got to telling stories to a nearby table of two couples. When I went to pay my bill I was told it was taken care of. They wouldn't tell me who to thank, and I left with a full belly. I shot down the block to a nearby Motel 8, took the first of my anti-biotics, as the cold is setting in, and did laundry. I was running a fever so I had a hard time going to sleep.
Day 24: Kountze to De Ridder, LA. (87m) I got off to a late start this morning, had the continental breakfast, and headed out about 9am. I stopped several times today to eat and drink plenty. The cold has my energy level down and, while passing over Big Cow creek, I noticed a county park with big shade trees so I stopped for a power nap. After 20 minutes I awoke and continued rolling toward Bon Weir. There is a Georgia Pacific plywood plant there and a Boise paper plant a little further east which explains all the logging trucks roaring passed all day. I crossed into Louisiana over the Sabine river. They didn't have a welcome sign so I shot a picture of the Texas sign going the west. With great relief I arrived in Merrysville, but didn't see anywhere to stay so I pressed on to De Ridder instead. I arrived with both sore wrists and a sore bum. Since I'm still feeling the effects of the cold I checked into the bike friendly Stagecoach Inn.
Day 25: De Ridder to Opelousas, LA. (85 m) Left De Ridder after the continental breakfast at about 9am. I'm adjusting to the humidity, but it isn't helping my cold much. I'm damp about 5 minutes into the ride and stay that way all day. I passed over the Calcasieu river and noticed hundreds of canoes to rent. I was really tempted to stop for the day for a lazy float, but I had missed a group that had recently departed. I had lunch in Oberlin, but couldn't locate the library. I ran into my first east to west"er", Brian, who is a New York City musician, doing the entire Southern Tier. He told me there is a group just 3 miles ahead of me going east. I tried to catch them but he said they have a sag wagon. I slid into Opelousas just after 5pm, when the library closed. I got off course somewhere near the city. These Parish roads are the worst I've seen so far. They don't seem to have any adopt a highway system here either so the garbage just piles up alongside the road and it would require a four wheel drive lawnmower to maintaining the roads as they have nearly been overgrown by grass. It was really a bum pounder through Evangelene Parish as the bike thumped over crack after crack! I called Curt tonite. He is having trouble shaking the cold and was trying too hard to catch up. We talked about our schedules again and he found out he has two extra days to get to St. Francesville. Since Tracy is coming into Baton Rouge this coming Sunday, I'm going to spend an extra day or two here instead of in the smaller town of St. Francisville, LA. It will give me some time to shake this cold too. I'm only 110 miles from our rendezvous now.
Day 26: Rest day in Opelousas, LA. (Just fun miles) I'm at the city library, where they're ready to kick me out for taking too long to update this blog. I'll label the pics Tracy posted as soon as I get the opportunity. My cold is finally fading. I took the bike without gear around the town today. It's light and nimble, but the roads are rough, dangerous, and covered with loose piles of gravel. I was eating lunch at the Palace Cafe downtown and one of the patrons stopped to visit. We discussed political views, cycling, and life in general before we were through. His name is Brad Jackson (Work #942-9984) and he has some nice apartments on Grolee St. in Opelousas that he rents to touring cyclists. I spoke with Curt later and recommended that he call if he stays there. It would be far more safe and comfortable than the Budget Inn! Afterward I went over to the Visitors Center where they have moved a collection of old buildings.
Day 27: Opelousas to New Roads, LA. (57 miles) It felt good to move on today. The beginning of the course meanders along the perimeter of the Thistlewaite Wildlife Management Area which was virtually traffic-free. I had lunch at Lebeau, LA. where I enjoyed the best spaghetti. I took some pictures of a 135 lb. snapping turtle on display. One of the locals had caught it in a nearby channel..and I've been looking for the little ones! At this point I decided to deviate from the course once again and strike for the Atchafalaya river crossing in Melville and save 62 miles. The actual route goes another day north to avoid the ferry but I can feel a big storm brewing. Unfortunately once I arrived I learned that the ferry had been out for two days and will be for 2 more months. The dilemma before me was to tack on another 70 miles or to sneak across the railroad bridge. I sacked out on the river for a short power nap and waited for the bridge operator to raise it for a passing boat. Gambling that a train wasn't going to be coming soon, I shot across the metal catwalk for 1/4 mile as soon as the center was lowered and slid down the other side, just missing treading on a big snake, and onto a dirt road. I followed the most heavily-used, but unmarked route for about 5-6 miles until I returned to the pavement. At this point I could smell the rain coming and the clouds looked threatening. Just before I entered Morganza the downpour started and it didn't quit for the rest of the night. I squished into New Roads, LA nearly in the dark (although it was only 4:30) and checked into the first motel I saw. I got drenched two more times when I ran to and from dinner later. The motel clerk said there were tornado warning in effect for the evening. I will spend the next several days here while I kill time waiting for Tracy to arrive across the Mississippi river in St. Francisville.
Day 28: Day off in New Roads, LA. I'm sitting in the library in New Roads as I wait for both Tracy and Curt to arrive. Tracy will come in on Sunday afternoon via Baton Rouge and stay until Tuesday morning; Curt is riding from De Ridder, LA., but has wisely opted not to try crossing the railroad trestle at Melville and plans on arriving by Monday.
As of this entry later the same day, I am sitting in the business room of a motel across from the Baton Rouge Airport and will fly home in the morning. Shortly after lunch I recieved some tragic personal news that my daughter, Erinn, age 22, was found dead in her home; Her former boyfriend was also dead at the scene. I've spoken with the Coroners office and the Homicide detective sergeant Mike Thompson, a friend of mine, in Las Vegas. The cause of death has not yet been determined, but it's being treated as a homicide pending the outcome of an autopsy in the morning. Please be in prayer for my family during this tragedy.

The highest point of the entire Southern Tier, Emory Pass. at 8828'. It was a real milestone!

This is a shot from Chisos Canyon in the Big Bend National Park, compliments of Joe Torres and Mc Goo's!

The mighty Rio Grande river.

Enough of Emory Pass already!

The second state we get to enter...but not for long.

Curt and I at the Apache Junction Motel as we get readt to head out on Day One of this adventure.

Another shot of us at the Apache Junction Motel.

Trip Journal Post 5: Day 16-20

Day 16: Camp Wood to Comfort, TX. (89 miles) We're going to slip off course today as we strike for Bastrop, TX and continue through the hill country. At Leakey, TX we stopped for and early lunch. I went to the library and made the last entry. Curt left earlier for Medina. I couldn't catch him at Vanderpool, where I, hopefully, shot a picture of a white goat laying in a field of Blue Bonnets. That section had some of the steepest grades I've climbed so far, but it was also one of the prettiest. Dense vegetation, dark oaks, and plenty of creeks and rivers throughout the day. With tired legs and sore bottoms, we met in Medina and headed north on 480 to Center Point (of the Hill Country, I guess) where we had dinner and lost the last of the light. We pedaled the 9 miles into Comfort in the dark. At 9:30 PM we checked into the Executive Inn in Comfort, one of the places not listed on our official bike map. It was another tough day of strong headwinds. On some of the climbs, I was brought to a complete standstill as I was hit with yet another blast! When I researched this route it was recommended to travel West to East because of the Gulf Stream (aka prevailing winds), but I'm beginning to think it only applies to aviators!! The wind has been the single most important factor throughout this trip. It will either make us or break us! We turned over 1100 total miles today.
Day 17: Comfort to Blanco, TX. (52 miles) Curt's rear end is really bad today; mine, only slightly better. We decided to take it easier today and enjoyed the more arid part of Hill Country. We will soon be back on the flat...I'm not looking forward to that. We ate breakfast in Comfort before we headed out, and skidded into the DQ as soon as we crossed the pretty Guadalupe River in Blanco. We camped right on the river at the Blanco State Park, had a Margarita at the nearby Mexican restaurant, and I slept like a log.
Day 18: Blanco to San Marcos, TX (36 miles) It was chilly and damp as we broke camp this morning. We met a large group of bicyclist from Timberland Adventures at the Bowling Alley Cafe in Blanco. The food was terrible but the company was good. We decided to deviate from the route again as Curt might have a cold coming on as well as his backside troubles. We're heading for San Marcos for another "easy"day, but it's hilly and yet another 20 mph headwind! We had lunch just outside San Marcos and then rode on into town. I had to stop at a bike shop for some gloves..lost one of them yesterday. Curt had a pretty rough day and is looking forward to a break and to Debbie meeting him in Bastrop.
Day 19: San Marcos to Bastrop (41 miles) We headed out Hwy 21 after breakfast at IHOP. It started drizzling shortly thereafter. It turned into a steady rain which continued all day. I forged ahead most of the day. The headwind was only 5-8 mph today. Curt seemed to rally today. Drenched, we checked into the Comfort Inn, did some bike maintenance, and get Curt on the mend. I'm going to hang here an extra day since our visitation schedules with our ladies will both cause a slight delay in the progress. Curt will stay here until Saturday, April 21st; I will move on Thursday the 19th, giving me 10 days to St. Francesville, where Tracy will meet me on the 29th.
Day 20: Bastrop, TX (Day Off) I watched the news aftermath about the Virginia Tech shooting this morning. In typical fashion, the media is demanding stricter gun control and blaming the adminstrators and law enforcement for the tragedy. The media is far more deadly to our society than guns will ever be! Sorry, I'm glad my news comes in small doses.
Curt is feeling the cold moving into his lungs so he's staying close to the motel. I rode into Bastrop to copy the maps for our seperation period and to update the blog. I apologize to all of you that have left comments. Thanks to all my family members for taking the time to look and reconnect! I haven't intentionally ignored you. The libraries set a time limit on their computers and, since my typing is slow, I'm usually getting kicked off before I post the next entry.

Trip Journal Post 4: Day 12-15

Day 12: Alpine to Sanderson (86 miles) (Trip Total 724 m) The wind has finally turned in our favor as we left Alpine this morning. We literally set sail east to Marathon with a 25mph tailwind. I sprinted a couple times to prepare for the hill country ahead and reached a new personal record, on the flat, of 27.4mph! After guzzling a Gatorade, we caught the breeze again to Sanderson, arriving about noon. Curt and I were having lunch at the "No Name Cafe" and visiting with two Texas couple sitting next to us. Before they left they insisted on having prayer together and then we found out just after they left that they had bought our lunch. We set up camp in an nearby RV park. I tried to get Curt to push another 60 miles to Langtry, but in hind-sight, it would've been a big mistake. Just after we set up camp another cyclist, Mike Drackert, came pulling in and struck camp with us. He's traveling alone east to west with a Bob trailer and has a website (web.mac.com/mdrackert). We sat around visiting at dinner in the No Name again and had dinner with a BMW F650 motorcyclist. We ended the evening playing Yahtzee, which I've been keeping in my running shoes throughout the whole trip.
Day 13: Sanderson to Amistad National Recreation Area near Del Rio (111 miles) (Total 835m)
We said our goodbyes to Mike this morning and got off to a later start than usual. Nothing was open so it was an energy bar breakfast Today began the training for the Lance Armstrong Texas Hill Country! It was sunny, hot, and calm on the way to Dryden. We had a sad little lunch of BBQ goat sandwich in an extremely unfriendly little roadside grocery. Afterward we took a short diversion to the Judge Roy Bean Visitors Center and shot a few pics. They had a great display of old buildings and a grand cactus garden...but we were both hoping for a power nap location instead! 29 miles later we rolled into Comstock, where we were suppose to camp, but everything had dried up there. No motel, no camping, no restaurant! There was no choice but to push on to the outskirts of Del Rio to the Amistad Recreational Area or to "Gorilla camp". We agreed it was not a day to go without a shower. Once we reached the Amistad, we realized they didn't have a shower facility either so we stopped at the first RV park and begged a campsite. The managers wife took pity on us when we found out the nearest food was 5 miles away and went to Whataburger for us. A shower never felt so good! And, I'm reminded of Doc's De Lorean in the movie "Back to the Future 2" where he stops and stuffs garbage into the fuel tank...lately that's all I've been putting into my engine!
Day 14: Amistad to Del Rio, TX. (10 miles) We took out time getting repacked this morning and trekked into Del Rio, where we had previously planned to take an extra day off. It was just the right day too because the wind was blowing at 30+ right out of the east. We ate breakfast at IHOP, checked into a nearby Motel 6, walked to the Walmart where we downloaded the pictures onto CD's to send home. Curt got shone at the mall and we caught the movie "Shooter", which was based on some novels I have read about a character, Bob Lee Swagger. Everything was within walking distance, including the Pizza Hut buffet we ate for dinner.
Day 15: Del Rio to Camp Wood, TX. (82 miles) Well, we hit the beginning of the Hill Country today! It was really pretty riding, but got hot and muggy. We ate an early lunch in Brackenville, TX (after 34 miles) and headed for Camp Wood. At about the halfway point, we crossed the west fork of the Neuses River, which actually was running across the road. I rode through, parked my bike on the rocks, stripped out of my riding gear and into running shorts, and was sitting in the river when Curt arrived. We snapped some pics but Curt didn't want to swim. I jumped in again and reluctantly dried off and pedaled another 25 miles to dinner on Camp Wood. I tried to get the blog updated there, but the library closed 10 minutes later. We rolled down to the Rockin River campground on the nearby Neuses River. About 10 minutes after we set up camp the owner, Chuck, told us there was a tornado watch for the evening and that he would open a cabin for us if we wanted to break camp. Withing 30 minutes the wind was howling, and inch-sized hail started pelting everything. We were safely in the cabin by then, along with our bikes. The wind howled all night long. When we got up this morning it was still blowing as we headed out to Camp Wood for breakfast. Chuck was in the cafe so I bought him breakfast in appreciation for his generosity! I'm currently sitting in a public library in Leakey, TX. (In case you've been wondering why I haven't been complaining about my rearend, it's because I have been adjusting to the mileage, diligently washing my riding shorts, and contentiously keeping my sore butt clean and lubed with Lanaseptic! Thanks for the tips, Rob Herber...I read the email!)We aren't sure where we will end this day, as the strong headwind and the hill country slows our forward momentum. That's for Day 16's entry anyway!

Trip Journal Post 3: Days 10-11

Day 10: Van Horn to Marfa, TX (76 miles) Because of the wind, we chose to deviate from the course this morning taking 90 south instead of I-10 to Kent. It was still cold and foggy when we left and I got a great picture of Curt riding along, smoking a cigar, with his nose dripping. At about 20 miles into it I had a front flat. It was a quick repair and we continued on for another 30 minutes. I was getting hot so we both decided to strip off our rain jackets. While we were stopped, a young couple in a grey VW bug with a road bike on top stopped to make sure we were okay. It turned out the girl was from Alpine, was a triathelete, and both seemed genuinely interested in our trip and bikes. At about 35 miles after Van Horn, I rolled up on the strangest art exhibit I have ever seen. In the middle of a flat, dry, uninhabited prairie is a small building with a plate glass front displaying Prada shoes and purses. Nothing for sale, just an art display. Of course, we got some pics. We ate some power bars since there was no where to eat lunch. It took hours to pass a single ranch (Ryan). I read that this area is where Dallas was filmed and Marfa has some strange reoccurring light phenomenon. Today was Easter Sunday and I nearly forgot! I scared up a buck antelope and put on a burst of speed, fumbling for my camera, as it ran along a fence-line. I hope I caught it on the digital. There were herds of antelope along the route. A vicious headwind hit us 5 miles from Marfa. We really had to dig down to reach town, wolfed a hot, greasy meal at DQ, and checked into the Riatta motel with 608 miles under our belts.
Day 11: Marfa to Alpine, TX (26 miles) You're probably wondering about the measly 27 miles, huh? Okay, here's how this day went: We left Marfa without breakfast and in a hurry to beat the expected wind. We had a short climb and then a drop through a beautiful, rocky canyon. I saw my first Javelina, dead of the road, and scared two Golden Eagles from a roadside tree. I wanted to see how fast I could push the loaded Koga today and actually hit 27 mph on the flat. Arriving in Alpine, I asked about a good restaurant for brunch and was directed to Mc Goo's. While we ate we talked to the owner, Joe Torres, who insisted that we should see Big Bend National Park (108 miles away). We told him we didn't have time on this trip, and he insisted that we borrow his new Camry. Curt and I knew we had some extra time since Debbie is coming into Austin after we will arrive so we gladly accepted the generous offer. What a great guy! I did the driving; Curt did the dozing. We saw Chisos Canyon, Panther Junction, all the cactus flowers in bloom, and snapped plenty of pics. We left Joe two 18 packs of Coors Longnecks on the seat(his son's girlfriend said it was his favorite), filled the tank, and returned the car to his restaurant. I'm sitting at the computer in the Lobo bar in Alpine where there is no shortage of friendly folks!

Trip Journal Post 2: Day 5-9

Day 5: Silver City to Arrey, NM (83 miles) We left Silver City, NM pedaling deep rolling hills until it turned into a gradual climb into the foothills. The highest mountain pass on the entire Southern Tier was just ahead. The ascent was broken up by some very fast downhills where we repeatedly lost hard earned elevation gains. I hung with Curt throughout all the climbs today. I'm getting stronger each day. We topped Emory Pass (8228') about noon and FLEW the 19 miles down to Hillsboro. The only restaurant flipped the closed sign at our approach so it was a bag of chips only. There was a new place soon to open and the owner gave us a tour of a beautifully renovated adobe motel and restaurant. I don't recall the name, but it will be a great place to stay for future cyclists and she has already submitted her info to Adventure Cycling. We came out of that valley into a headwind and pushed our way to the state campgrounds along the Rio Grande in Arrey, NM. We had a great time visiting with all the curious locals in the Arrey Cafe for both dinner and breakfast. We pitched camp on a pile of Goatheads that filled my shoes, and threatened to flatten both tires and sleeping pads.
Day 6: Arrey, NM to Las Cruces, NM (57 miles) The sunny, warm weather continued to hold with winds out of the south at 8-12 mph. I awoke to a front flat (not Goatheads, some steel belts wire instead) which I fixed in short order. We finally started at around 0900; the wind started at 1100 and there wasn't anything until Las Cruces so we pushed on. We made Cruces at 1430 and checked into a cheap but very comfortable motel, the Teakwood. My rearend is nearly raw with no relief in sight! If this continues I won't be able to ride much longer. I WILL be replacing this seat with a Brooks in the future.
Day 7: Las Cruces, NM to Fabens, TX. (78 miles) The Lord blessed me with a miracle; My rearend recovered during the night and I was easily able to complete the mileage today. Today was miles of well-manicured Pecan orchards and cotton fields. We reached El Paso at lunchtime, crossing into Texas, but without a photo since there wasn't a border sign. Yesterday I developed a rattling noise somewhere near my bottom bracket. Since my rear cassette came apart on the last training ride, I've been nervous. (This intermittent noise is only while under pressure on the right-side pedal down stroke.) Chris worked on my bike immediately. He wasn't able to locate the problem, but, since he pulled it apart, it's gone. We fooled around in El Paso for 2 hours and headed to Fabens, TX. where we checked into a motel and, as usual, went to bed early and tired.
Day 8: Fabens to Van Horn, TX (65 miles riding, 33 more as passengers!) Trip total is over 500 miles.) We were shooting for 98 miles today, hoping to make up for some mileage shortages on prior days. We left the motel at 0715, skipping breakfast to put in the pedal time.The wind was not going to cooperate though. It started out at 8 mph, but quickly kicked up to 20 to Fort Hancock, and eventually 30 mph to Sierra Blanca, slowing us to a crawl. (Curt has the roughest time in the wind because of his lighter weight.) We ate lunch in a dumpy restaurant and considered our problem. The wind nearly stopped our progress and the temperature was beginning to drop. I suggested that we hitch a ride to Van Horn as resources in Sierra Blanca were slim and seedy. We rolled across the street to a Chevron, I asked a guy that had just pulled up in a pickup, and he took us east for an additional 33 miles.
Day 9: Van Horn, TX (0 miles) We had to take a day off here in Van Horn. We awoke to rain and 15 mph NE winds which continues as I type. The temperature according to Accuweather is Real Feel of 21 degrees because of the wind chill. Apparently Texas, along with much of the country is having a return of winter weather. Guess we will rest up and regroup for the road ahead. There are few services for next few days so it's probably just as well. The only services here are a dollar store, bars, motels, and restaurants. I'm not sure what keeps towns like Van Horn alive. The weather forecast for tomorrow shows warmer temps but higher winds. If that is accurate, we will deviate from the established route, turning south on 90, to avoid the direct head wind and reevaluate at Alpine, TX. In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood, "improvise, adapt, overcome."
Mind: Most of the time I'm scanning the road for obstacles and for terrain changes ahead. Much of the time is also spent maintaining a consistent level of exertion and even pace. I often catch myself singing the same song repeatedly, kinda like a mantra. It's amazing the amount of lyrics to dumb songs that I can remember. So much for deep thinking! I worry about how things are going at home and miss Tracy and the boys. Waxing philosophical yesterday, I considered how much this trip is like life-I expect the hills to be hard, but even the downhills are difficult when a strong wind is in your face.
Body: My conditioning is improving daily. I doubt that I have lost a single pound unless peeling skin counts. I sheared my hair off before the start and the sun has burnt right through the holes in the helmet so even my head in peeling. Although my legs are tired at days end, they recover quickly. My rearend is bruised and welted, but slowly recovering. Both of us have had an odd burning sensation in the balls of our left feet, especially after long upgrades.
Soul: We have seen a wide variety of beautiful country in the last week. It's hard to imagine anything but the wonder of God's creation out here. I feel His presence giving us safe passage.

Trip Journal Post 1: Day 1-4

Day 1: Apache Junction to Peridot, AZ. (78 miles) At the moment I'm sitting in a motel lobby in Silver City, New Mexico. We left Apache Junction, Az on March 30th, 2007 after driving down the previous evening. We met my Uncle Dan Rodgers and family for dinner and they also came to see us off the following morning. With their encouragement and some final photos, we sailed eastward. The climb to Globe was easier than expected, but there was an element of terror because of the narrow bridges, no shoulders, and a tunnel with an uphill climb! Aside from that it was a fantastic day of riding. We logged 78 miles and "gorilla" camped along the San Carlos river near Peridot, Az. During the night ice formed on the top of my sleeping bag and we learned the following morning that it had dipped well below freezing. (We also learned that it's better to pitch the tents, especially when there's a full moon. It was like sleeping under a stadium light!)
Day 2: Peridot to Thatcher (65 miles) We met an elderly English couple, the Spiveys, at the grocery store in Peridot. Their bikes were 30 years old or older and their combined luggage was less than either ONE of ours! They are doing the Southern Tier and have done many other long distance tours. That evening Curt holed up to watch the final four college basketball at the motel; I went exploring with an unloaded bike and did my laundry in Safford, Az.
Day 3: Thatcher to Buckhorn (80 miles) We overtook the Spiveys during the climb to a 4800' pass and rode with them through the fast descent into 3 Way, Az. It was truly a pleasure visiting with them, but I fear it will be our last as they're traveling at a more leisurely pace. They were scheduled to camp at 3 Way so, after lunch, we parted company and began the strenuous climb to a 6300' pass. I watched Curt recede into the distance and settled into the most grueling climb so far. I finally reached the top to find Curt there waiting. He had finished his final water bottle so I split my last one and we hoped for water ahead in Mule Creek, 12 miles away. Somewhere in between we crossed the state line into New Mexico, where we took advantage of a photo opportunity. At Mule Creek we had to sneak around a unoccupied house to get water from a hose bib. With full bottles we pushed the last 19 miles to Buckhorn, just skidding in before dark. We wolfed down pizza at the grocery store and set up camp under the full moon. Yes, I learned my lesson and pitched a tent. We met three more travelers going east at the campground but they are staying in Silver City, NM for a rest day.
Day 4: Buckhorn to Silver City (37 Miles) Today was to be considered a recovery ride after yesterdays' tough course. We must be prepared for the most difficult climb on the entire Southern Tier, Emery Pass (8228') tomorrow. Today turned out to be harder than we expected with rolling hills all the way into Silver City, NM. Curt was snoozing as I left to make this entry. I will continue to update as the opportunity arises.