Day 48: Damascus to Christiansburg, VA. (115 miles) It was actually hard to overcome the inertia of Damascus! I ate breakfast before I left and visited with several people I'd met the previous day. Somewhat reluctantly I rolled onto the Virginia Creeper Trail, so named for the former railroad passage up through Mt. Rogers. It crosses the Appalachian Trail several times along the way and I rode along it's 11 miles of peaceful dirt trails, passing hikers and bikes along the way. After turning back out onto the Transamerican, the next 25-30 miles were beautiful woods which turned into a lush, green wide valley for miles. Things turned into a blur as I pedaled steadily for the next several hours. I found myself only seven miles from Christianburg before I realized I was tired.
Day 49: Christiansburg to Natural Bridge, VA. (81 miles) When I near the end of motorcycle trips, like a barn sour horse, I find myself in a hurry to be home. This morning I spoke with an older couple who were out on their bicycles for a short weekend trip. They told me about an 8000 miles trip they had taken! It's makes you realize that there is always someone who has done something bigger, longer, greater. Later I met my cousin Linda Exley and her former exchange student, Thomas, near Troutville. We hadn't seen each other for 18 years so we covered a variety of topics. While we visited, a short thunderstorm struck, drenching the bike, but it didn't last and the rest of the day was dry. I stopped at the Natural Bridge site, of of the seven natural wonders of the world, but couldn't negotiate a reduced price just to snap a picture and ride on. Deciding not to pay $12 for a picture, I skipped a postcard too. I'll look at it on the Internet! Out of clean bike clothes, I stopped at a motel where they agreed to wash my stuff for an additional $10. I ate a backpack meal inside the motel room using my stove to heat the water for hot chocolate too.
Day 50: Natural Bridge to
I rode 10 miles into Lexington for breakfast, to stop at the public library, and to ask some questions at the bike shop about an annoying metallic click the bike has developed. I think I'm going to research another course from here because I'm actually going further east than I need to as of today.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Trip Journal Post 10: Days 41-47
Day 41: Glascow to Lebanon, KY (78 miles) It was a splendid day for riding. The pines are gone from the forest, which is thinner and more inviting. Although the sun penetrates easily, it is still very lush and green. Just before arriving in Hogenville, I visited the birthplace of one of my personal heroes, Abraham Lincoln. I nodded through an 18 minute movie, saw his tiny log cabin, read some of his quotations, and my admiration grew larger still. About 3 miles later I ran into two westbound riders. We visited for 20 minutes but I felt the need to push onward, as it was still 43 miles to Springfield. 3 1/2 hours later I arrived in Lebanon instead, 9 miles short of Springfield. I stopped to eat at a Mexican restaurant and only moment later I found some new friends; Blake and Mary Ann Ohsol, who live just down the street, came in and were excited about my bike and the trip. I invited them to eat with me and ended up staying at their home for the night. They are the friendliest, most interesting couple and their energy was a breath of fresh air. Being in their home was very peaceful and thoroughly rejuvenated me!
Day 42: Lebanon to Berea, KY (82 miles) Somewhat reluctantly I left the Ohsons after bacon and eggs. I arrived in Harrodsburg within 4 hours, as I tried to make up getting off to a late start. I made several stops on the way to Berea to rehydrate. Berea, full of history and youthful vigor, is a pretty little college town which caters to primarily the Appalachian mountain area children. Qualified low income kids can attend there for free, but they are required to work at the college during their stay. I camped just south of town at an RV park.
Day 43: Berea to Buckhorn, KY (81 miles) I awoke to another beautiful morning. The tent and sleeping bag had to be stowed wet with dew. I rode back into Berea for breakfast at the famous Daniel Boone Tavern. Then I began a roller-coaster ride into the younger range of the Appalachians. I have always been drawn to the mountains, but, of all the places this trip has taken me, none have called so strongly. Trees cover the knobby hills completely, the fragrance of wild Honeysuckle fills the air, and the unfamiliar but soothing sounds of a wide variety of birds fill the air. These are rugged mountains that test my conditioning as I shift continuously to make the assents. Any knee or quad muscle problems I was having are gone now. Although I'm thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day, I still enjoy it immensely.
Day 44: Buckhorn to Pippa Passes, KY (56 miles) I left the campground this morning and have only stopped for food and Gatorade until I reached Hindman. As I update this blog at the public library, it's pouring rain and I'm not sure about pushing onward. At the moment this town looks like as good a place as any! The rain stopped about the time I finished updating the blog and as I stepped out of the library the sun was shining brightly so I rode on to Pippa Passes where I stayed at a hostel. This was another first and for $7, it was a real bargain. Steve Birge, another cyclist traveling west was there ahead of me and I followed his lead as I unloaded in to the bunk house. We sipped tea and discussed our adventures. We agreed that this could be an addictive lifestyle; Steve had many other trips under his belt.
Day 45: Pippa Passes to Council, VA (87 miles) Steve was an early riser and sounded like a giant pack-rat as he re-stowed his equipment. I took a few pics of the hostel to share with Tracy and headed back into the mountains. Steve had suggested stopping at a restaurant 13 miles ahead, where I had the place to myself and enjoyed a pancake and sausage breakfast. It was another day of climb after climb, but both me and the bike are performing well. I ate lunch in Elkhorn City and considered stopping at the public library. Instead I pressed on through the Breaks Interstate Park between Kentucky and Virginia. It's beautiful and rugged country. I wanted to stop there for a swim but the public access was closed for renovations so I rode on to Haysi, VA., where I ate dinner. The traffic was unbearable, especially the coal trucks. I had intended to stay there but couldn't find anything suitable. The map showed a camping recreation area 17 miles ahead at Council, VA. Turned out it was just a city park, but the covered picnic table made a comfortable bed for the night.
Day 46: Council to Damascus, VA. (54 miles) Mike Pederson, a old friend from Logandale who retired from the Highway Patrol and moved to Charlotte, NC., has arranged to meet at Damascus. I got off to an early start which quickly turned into steep climbs. I ate breakfast in a farmers cafe in Honaker, and as I sat eating I realized that I couldn't decipher I word in ten that was spoken! Virginia is the most beautiful yet. I took some pics of the misty valleys I crossed today. These vistas are really something to behold. I arrived into Damascus by 2pm and threw my laundry in immediately. Mike called right from the same intersection at about 2:30pm. It was really good to see an old friendly face. He had made arrangements to stay at a nearby town, Abingdon, where we ate, went to the movies, and drank Margaritas. It was quite a treat and lifted my spirits even higher than usual.
Day 47: Damascus, VA. We arrived back at the same intersection later in the morning. Mike and I said our goodbyes. Since this is where the Appalachian Trail and the Transamerican Trail bisect, there are plenty of bike and backpack outfitters. My tent is threatening to quit early on me, as one of the nylon suspension rods has shattered, so I thought I would nose around. It's a unique little town to visit and is the access point for the Virginia Creeper Trail, an alternate bike route that will give me an 11 mile sample of off road passage, much like what lies ahead into Pennsylvania. I've decided to finish out the day here and leave in the morning.
Day 42: Lebanon to Berea, KY (82 miles) Somewhat reluctantly I left the Ohsons after bacon and eggs. I arrived in Harrodsburg within 4 hours, as I tried to make up getting off to a late start. I made several stops on the way to Berea to rehydrate. Berea, full of history and youthful vigor, is a pretty little college town which caters to primarily the Appalachian mountain area children. Qualified low income kids can attend there for free, but they are required to work at the college during their stay. I camped just south of town at an RV park.
Day 43: Berea to Buckhorn, KY (81 miles) I awoke to another beautiful morning. The tent and sleeping bag had to be stowed wet with dew. I rode back into Berea for breakfast at the famous Daniel Boone Tavern. Then I began a roller-coaster ride into the younger range of the Appalachians. I have always been drawn to the mountains, but, of all the places this trip has taken me, none have called so strongly. Trees cover the knobby hills completely, the fragrance of wild Honeysuckle fills the air, and the unfamiliar but soothing sounds of a wide variety of birds fill the air. These are rugged mountains that test my conditioning as I shift continuously to make the assents. Any knee or quad muscle problems I was having are gone now. Although I'm thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day, I still enjoy it immensely.
Day 44: Buckhorn to Pippa Passes, KY (56 miles) I left the campground this morning and have only stopped for food and Gatorade until I reached Hindman. As I update this blog at the public library, it's pouring rain and I'm not sure about pushing onward. At the moment this town looks like as good a place as any! The rain stopped about the time I finished updating the blog and as I stepped out of the library the sun was shining brightly so I rode on to Pippa Passes where I stayed at a hostel. This was another first and for $7, it was a real bargain. Steve Birge, another cyclist traveling west was there ahead of me and I followed his lead as I unloaded in to the bunk house. We sipped tea and discussed our adventures. We agreed that this could be an addictive lifestyle; Steve had many other trips under his belt.
Day 45: Pippa Passes to Council, VA (87 miles) Steve was an early riser and sounded like a giant pack-rat as he re-stowed his equipment. I took a few pics of the hostel to share with Tracy and headed back into the mountains. Steve had suggested stopping at a restaurant 13 miles ahead, where I had the place to myself and enjoyed a pancake and sausage breakfast. It was another day of climb after climb, but both me and the bike are performing well. I ate lunch in Elkhorn City and considered stopping at the public library. Instead I pressed on through the Breaks Interstate Park between Kentucky and Virginia. It's beautiful and rugged country. I wanted to stop there for a swim but the public access was closed for renovations so I rode on to Haysi, VA., where I ate dinner. The traffic was unbearable, especially the coal trucks. I had intended to stay there but couldn't find anything suitable. The map showed a camping recreation area 17 miles ahead at Council, VA. Turned out it was just a city park, but the covered picnic table made a comfortable bed for the night.
Day 46: Council to Damascus, VA. (54 miles) Mike Pederson, a old friend from Logandale who retired from the Highway Patrol and moved to Charlotte, NC., has arranged to meet at Damascus. I got off to an early start which quickly turned into steep climbs. I ate breakfast in a farmers cafe in Honaker, and as I sat eating I realized that I couldn't decipher I word in ten that was spoken! Virginia is the most beautiful yet. I took some pics of the misty valleys I crossed today. These vistas are really something to behold. I arrived into Damascus by 2pm and threw my laundry in immediately. Mike called right from the same intersection at about 2:30pm. It was really good to see an old friendly face. He had made arrangements to stay at a nearby town, Abingdon, where we ate, went to the movies, and drank Margaritas. It was quite a treat and lifted my spirits even higher than usual.
Day 47: Damascus, VA. We arrived back at the same intersection later in the morning. Mike and I said our goodbyes. Since this is where the Appalachian Trail and the Transamerican Trail bisect, there are plenty of bike and backpack outfitters. My tent is threatening to quit early on me, as one of the nylon suspension rods has shattered, so I thought I would nose around. It's a unique little town to visit and is the access point for the Virginia Creeper Trail, an alternate bike route that will give me an 11 mile sample of off road passage, much like what lies ahead into Pennsylvania. I've decided to finish out the day here and leave in the morning.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Trip Journal Post 9: Days 36-40
Day 36: Fooling Around Tupelo, MS (10 miles) Although I took the day off to mend the knee, I feel restless. There's wet weather expected tonight and tomorrow. My knee is fine when not pedaling but I climbed aboard and went in search of a bike shop. (I could write some reviews on the equipment for this trip. My second pair of gloves were the high dollar gel Treks but the gel leaked in the compartments where it's needed most.) While at the bike shop I picked up some stove fuel, greased my pedals, and got another freeze-dried food packet. I discovered too late that the house where Elvis Presley was born was only 8 miles away; It would have been dark in an hour.
Day 37: Tupelo to Glenrock Picnic Area, TN (104 miles) I left town in a misty drizzle. The characteristics of the terrain are beginning to change. The pines are giving in to hardwoods; limestone outcroppings are evident; The mild swells are hills once again. The character of the ride is changing subtly too. Alone with my thoughts, they wander less in the dark each day. The joy of the effort is slowly returning. Erinn, while most certainly out of my reach, is just as certainly communing with the Lord. Tears will probably always sting my eyes when I think of her. I caught almost all of the scenic pull-offs along the Trace today. The drizzle turned briefly to rain and, by mid-afternoon, the sun was out on full force. I managed to bicycle in three states today: 46 miles in MS, 33 miles in Alabama, and 25 miles into TN! My right quad is holding but still complaining. I camped along a babbling stream at a picnic area.
Day 38: Glenrock Branch to Franklin, TN (78 miles) It was only about 45 degrees as I repacked this morning. I was grateful to have my Oregon shirt, hat, and glove liners. It was 42 miles before I found a place to eat breakfast. I jumped off the Trace at Hwy 412 at Fall Hallow Bed and Breakfast. I enjoyed visiting with the owners so much that I was still there 2.5 hours later! After that I put my head down and pedaled only looking at some of the sights.I said goodbye the the Natchez Trace Parkway at Leipers Fork and skidded into a motel at Franklin.
Day 39: Franklin to Gallantin, TN (42 miles) I left town on Hwy 31E going directly into Nashville. Just south of Nashville were numerous multi-million dollar homes. Surprisingly I saw an REI store along the route and traded my defective "inflatable" sleeping pad for one that actually works. When I explained that it was no fun blowing it back up all night, they were very gracious about it. Shortly afterward I arrived in downtown Nashville. I shot some picture of the contrast between the old and the new there, and, naturally, got a shot posing with a plastic Elvis. I pushed onward through the urban sprawl until Gallatin, where I was offered a meal and a place to stay by a passing motorist/cyclist/Air Force surgeon. I foolishly declined, wanting to push onward for another 2 hours, but, when I paused for a moment to look at the map, I realized there wasn't anything ahead in that range. I ended the evening camped at the Gallantin Civic Center, where they allowed me the use of their shower facility the following morning.
Day 40: Gallanin to Glasgow, KY (60 miles) The urban sprawl was easier to deal with than the lack of shoulder as I continued to aim towards reconnecting with the Transamerican Route. It started out 6' wide as I left Gallantin, but turned to 8" with a 10" rumble strip once in Kentucy. I stopped in Westmoreland and visited with Steve Barron, owner of the Shell station, for over an hour. I finally decided to quit early to get my laundry done and to update the blog in Glasgow, KY.
Day 37: Tupelo to Glenrock Picnic Area, TN (104 miles) I left town in a misty drizzle. The characteristics of the terrain are beginning to change. The pines are giving in to hardwoods; limestone outcroppings are evident; The mild swells are hills once again. The character of the ride is changing subtly too. Alone with my thoughts, they wander less in the dark each day. The joy of the effort is slowly returning. Erinn, while most certainly out of my reach, is just as certainly communing with the Lord. Tears will probably always sting my eyes when I think of her. I caught almost all of the scenic pull-offs along the Trace today. The drizzle turned briefly to rain and, by mid-afternoon, the sun was out on full force. I managed to bicycle in three states today: 46 miles in MS, 33 miles in Alabama, and 25 miles into TN! My right quad is holding but still complaining. I camped along a babbling stream at a picnic area.
Day 38: Glenrock Branch to Franklin, TN (78 miles) It was only about 45 degrees as I repacked this morning. I was grateful to have my Oregon shirt, hat, and glove liners. It was 42 miles before I found a place to eat breakfast. I jumped off the Trace at Hwy 412 at Fall Hallow Bed and Breakfast. I enjoyed visiting with the owners so much that I was still there 2.5 hours later! After that I put my head down and pedaled only looking at some of the sights.I said goodbye the the Natchez Trace Parkway at Leipers Fork and skidded into a motel at Franklin.
Day 39: Franklin to Gallantin, TN (42 miles) I left town on Hwy 31E going directly into Nashville. Just south of Nashville were numerous multi-million dollar homes. Surprisingly I saw an REI store along the route and traded my defective "inflatable" sleeping pad for one that actually works. When I explained that it was no fun blowing it back up all night, they were very gracious about it. Shortly afterward I arrived in downtown Nashville. I shot some picture of the contrast between the old and the new there, and, naturally, got a shot posing with a plastic Elvis. I pushed onward through the urban sprawl until Gallatin, where I was offered a meal and a place to stay by a passing motorist/cyclist/Air Force surgeon. I foolishly declined, wanting to push onward for another 2 hours, but, when I paused for a moment to look at the map, I realized there wasn't anything ahead in that range. I ended the evening camped at the Gallantin Civic Center, where they allowed me the use of their shower facility the following morning.
Day 40: Gallanin to Glasgow, KY (60 miles) The urban sprawl was easier to deal with than the lack of shoulder as I continued to aim towards reconnecting with the Transamerican Route. It started out 6' wide as I left Gallantin, but turned to 8" with a 10" rumble strip once in Kentucy. I stopped in Westmoreland and visited with Steve Barron, owner of the Shell station, for over an hour. I finally decided to quit early to get my laundry done and to update the blog in Glasgow, KY.
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
Trip Journal Post 8: Days 29- 35
Day 29: Return to Baton Rouge (0 miles) It was an uneventful flight into Baton Rouge. After deplaning I walked the .5 mile to the Supreme Inn across the street and checked in. I also contacted Dave from Dave's mobile bike repair (the links been added) to arrange the return of the Koga. I had contacted Dave in the middle of a crisis; His response was priceless. He drove up to New Roads (30 miles away), collected me and the bike, dropped me at the motel across from the airport, and stored the bike while I was gone. Dave and his wife dropped it by the motel this evening and, after a short visit, I began to repack for the first day.
Day 30: Baton Rouge to Centreville, MS (71 miles) After a hardy continental breakfast I left the motel at 7AM. I wasn't hungry in St. Francesville so I rode the ferry back to New Roads and came right back. I just needed to complete the circuit as part of my mourning process. Between getting to the ferry and eating in Jackson, it added 6 miles to the trip. The next section was dense forest with occasional fan palms and a sprinkling of wild flowers. I entered Mississippi right after Norwood, but it was with a flat tire. When I noticed the flat I just limped it over the state line to make the repairs. That night I stayed at Rose Hall, a BnB in Centreville, and enjoyed both dinner and breakfast with owners, John and Jacque.
Day 31: Centreville to Port Gibson, MS. (92 miles) Right after leaving the town of Centreville, I spent the next 2 hours being chased by dogs. It was 46 miles into Natchez, and after lunch the course merges onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. The Trace doesn't allow commercial vehicles and I quickly learned there usually isn't much traffic either. The trees are packed tightly with little sun penetrating to the forest floor. The humidity is now so high that my evaporation system can't keep up.
Day 32: Port Gibson to Ridgeland, MS. (71 miles) While eating breakfast from a nearby gas station, I laundered all my bike clothes. The Trace is a bikers delight. There are some places under construction, but, as in life, it makes us steer a narrower course. The humidity and yesterdays mileage has sapped my energy. I rode 46 miles before finding a place to eat. Once I arrived in Clinton, I had to ride off course several miles to find a restaurant. It worked out well though with a post office across the street, as I needed to ship my other bike seat home and the seat post back to Commuter Bikes. If you have been wondering why I quit talking about the bike seat problems, it's because the leather Brooks saddle has been working very well. I started rubbing conditioner into the surface while on the flight out here and continue to soften the leather daily. It might look exceedingly uncomfortable, but, in fact, it's no wonder that so many people swear by them. Concern for my rear end is no longer an issue! I rode another 14 miles into Ridgeland, MS.
Day 33: Ridgeland to Kosciusko, MS (60 miles) Something is amuck with the medial side of my right quad at the knee. After three days I'd hoped to find my rhythm again, but the sharp knee pain isn't helping. I continue on the Trace until Nashville, TN. Forced to slow the pace, I spent the day stopping to see the posted sights. My favorite was a Cypress swamp. It was soothing to the soul to see the sights and reflections surrounding the swamp, and to hear the odd array of unfamiliar sounds. There was a wooden foot bridge suspended over the water, and as I walked across another visitor pointed out a 6' alligator cruising through the mossy water within my reach. It stopped to stare and afforded me a great photo opportunity! By mid-afternoon my knee threatened mutiny so I limped into Kosciusko, MS. I readjusted my seat slightly lower since it could be the cause. And maybe a shorter day will help.
Day 34: Kosciusko to Witch Dance Campground (74 miles) The cool morning was a welcome relief from the afternoon heat and humidity. I headed to French Camp, MS., where I hoped to enjoy a hearty breakfast, but when I arrived 22 miles later, everything was closed. Oddly enough there was an open laundromat right near the Trace where I dried yesterdays wet clothes. Thirteen miles later I had one of my freeze dried dinner packets for lunch at a gas station at Jeff Bugby Park. It really hit the spot, but my knee was giving me grief once again. The searing pain has not returned. The goal of Tupelo at 103 miles receded into the distance though. I was more than pleased to strike a primitive camp at Witch Dance picnic area. Supposedly witches once danced there and no grass would grow where their feet touched. They must have danced as much as I have because I camped on a beautiful stretch of turf! I took some pictures of the Old Trace Trail today. I doubt they will do it justice, for it's like a freeway cut out of the forest much like the one in the Last of the Mohicans. It strange to tread where the likes of Fernando De Soto and the "Kaintucks" have gone so long before! For those of you interested in the Trace, it was a series of Indian trails eventually turned into a postal route and used by the flat boatmen traveling down the Mississippi as their route home.
Day 35: Witch Dance to Tupelo, MS (36 miles) I was up with the sun, packed quickly, and was on the road within 30 minutes. Pedaling slowly to give my knee proper warm-up time, it started pinging immediately. Thirty miles later I took the first exit into Tupelo, convinced the ideal breakfast was just around the corner, only to find the first Starbucks since I left Phoenix. Naturally that warranted a prolonged stop where I visited with the manager, who bought my coffee, and with two local park rangers who made a recommendation to ride another 6 miles to the next exit where everything I required would be at hand. It was a cornucopia of restaurants, a great motel, theaters, and a mall. The motel has a lobby computer available where I have updated the site and done my required banking, since I seem to spend so many more days in motels than I expected! Tomorrow is a leisure day while I hope to give my knee recovery time.
Day 30: Baton Rouge to Centreville, MS (71 miles) After a hardy continental breakfast I left the motel at 7AM. I wasn't hungry in St. Francesville so I rode the ferry back to New Roads and came right back. I just needed to complete the circuit as part of my mourning process. Between getting to the ferry and eating in Jackson, it added 6 miles to the trip. The next section was dense forest with occasional fan palms and a sprinkling of wild flowers. I entered Mississippi right after Norwood, but it was with a flat tire. When I noticed the flat I just limped it over the state line to make the repairs. That night I stayed at Rose Hall, a BnB in Centreville, and enjoyed both dinner and breakfast with owners, John and Jacque.
Day 31: Centreville to Port Gibson, MS. (92 miles) Right after leaving the town of Centreville, I spent the next 2 hours being chased by dogs. It was 46 miles into Natchez, and after lunch the course merges onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. The Trace doesn't allow commercial vehicles and I quickly learned there usually isn't much traffic either. The trees are packed tightly with little sun penetrating to the forest floor. The humidity is now so high that my evaporation system can't keep up.
Day 32: Port Gibson to Ridgeland, MS. (71 miles) While eating breakfast from a nearby gas station, I laundered all my bike clothes. The Trace is a bikers delight. There are some places under construction, but, as in life, it makes us steer a narrower course. The humidity and yesterdays mileage has sapped my energy. I rode 46 miles before finding a place to eat. Once I arrived in Clinton, I had to ride off course several miles to find a restaurant. It worked out well though with a post office across the street, as I needed to ship my other bike seat home and the seat post back to Commuter Bikes. If you have been wondering why I quit talking about the bike seat problems, it's because the leather Brooks saddle has been working very well. I started rubbing conditioner into the surface while on the flight out here and continue to soften the leather daily. It might look exceedingly uncomfortable, but, in fact, it's no wonder that so many people swear by them. Concern for my rear end is no longer an issue! I rode another 14 miles into Ridgeland, MS.
Day 33: Ridgeland to Kosciusko, MS (60 miles) Something is amuck with the medial side of my right quad at the knee. After three days I'd hoped to find my rhythm again, but the sharp knee pain isn't helping. I continue on the Trace until Nashville, TN. Forced to slow the pace, I spent the day stopping to see the posted sights. My favorite was a Cypress swamp. It was soothing to the soul to see the sights and reflections surrounding the swamp, and to hear the odd array of unfamiliar sounds. There was a wooden foot bridge suspended over the water, and as I walked across another visitor pointed out a 6' alligator cruising through the mossy water within my reach. It stopped to stare and afforded me a great photo opportunity! By mid-afternoon my knee threatened mutiny so I limped into Kosciusko, MS. I readjusted my seat slightly lower since it could be the cause. And maybe a shorter day will help.
Day 34: Kosciusko to Witch Dance Campground (74 miles) The cool morning was a welcome relief from the afternoon heat and humidity. I headed to French Camp, MS., where I hoped to enjoy a hearty breakfast, but when I arrived 22 miles later, everything was closed. Oddly enough there was an open laundromat right near the Trace where I dried yesterdays wet clothes. Thirteen miles later I had one of my freeze dried dinner packets for lunch at a gas station at Jeff Bugby Park. It really hit the spot, but my knee was giving me grief once again. The searing pain has not returned. The goal of Tupelo at 103 miles receded into the distance though. I was more than pleased to strike a primitive camp at Witch Dance picnic area. Supposedly witches once danced there and no grass would grow where their feet touched. They must have danced as much as I have because I camped on a beautiful stretch of turf! I took some pictures of the Old Trace Trail today. I doubt they will do it justice, for it's like a freeway cut out of the forest much like the one in the Last of the Mohicans. It strange to tread where the likes of Fernando De Soto and the "Kaintucks" have gone so long before! For those of you interested in the Trace, it was a series of Indian trails eventually turned into a postal route and used by the flat boatmen traveling down the Mississippi as their route home.
Day 35: Witch Dance to Tupelo, MS (36 miles) I was up with the sun, packed quickly, and was on the road within 30 minutes. Pedaling slowly to give my knee proper warm-up time, it started pinging immediately. Thirty miles later I took the first exit into Tupelo, convinced the ideal breakfast was just around the corner, only to find the first Starbucks since I left Phoenix. Naturally that warranted a prolonged stop where I visited with the manager, who bought my coffee, and with two local park rangers who made a recommendation to ride another 6 miles to the next exit where everything I required would be at hand. It was a cornucopia of restaurants, a great motel, theaters, and a mall. The motel has a lobby computer available where I have updated the site and done my required banking, since I seem to spend so many more days in motels than I expected! Tomorrow is a leisure day while I hope to give my knee recovery time.
Thursday, May 3, 2007
Trip Journal Post 7: The Return to Baton Rouge
Thank you all for your comments and for your prayers. Both my family and Peggy's are so very heartbroken. We said goodbye to my baby girl, Erinn, on Wednesday May 2, 2007 at her viewing and memorial service. I was deeply touched by the standing room only crowd that attended. Erinn's death has raised many questions, some of which will remain unanswered. As her father and a former policeman, it is intensely frustrating to wonder what happened in those final hours. But as a father and a Christian, I stand on the deeply reassuring authority of the Bible and know that I will see Erinn again in heaven. I ran nearly 20 miles in the two days preceding her service trying to ease this pain in my heart. It may seem strange to some but returning to the exertion of bike touring seems essential right now.
For those of you following the trip, my next posting will be after I return to Baton Rouge on May 8th to finish the journey. Unfortunately Curt will not be able to rejoin me, as he has other important travel plans for an Alaskan summer. June is a busy month for all families; mine is certainly no exception. Pending the approval of the Rodgers Master Calender, I need approximately 31 days to complete this second half, allowing me 4 rest days and 3 to visit on the end. Hopefully, once I regain my rhythm, it will be possible to save some time and return earlier. Instead of following the Great Rivers Route to the west of Nashville to intercept the Transamerican Route which adds hundreds of miles, I intend to strike east of the city and reconnect at the Mammoth Cave National Park loop, an alternate on the T/A Route, which goes east from there to Waynesboro, VA. At that point I turn north through West Virginia and find my way to the Great Allegheny Passage into Pittsburgh.
During several communications with Eric Schwartz (from Commuter Bikes), it was collectively decided to purchase a Brooks Conquest seat. He has graciously loaned me a seat post, since the Koga has an unusual diameter, so I will simply swap them throughout each day as I break in the tough leather saddle. It will add nearly 3 pounds to the load, but I've decided to wear an old pair of running shoes to discard when I arrive at the motel to help compensate for the extra weight. My bike shoes are quite comfortable so I've rarely worn the others. (The shower shoes, however, have been priceless!) Dave, the epitome of southern hospitality, is going to deliver my bike and gear to the motel across from the airport the evening I arrive. (I have added a link to his site.) Nearly everything is ready for the return, except my heavy heart. Both Tracy and I seem so fragile right now. I'm torn. I feel I should stay, yet feel compelled to finish. Perhaps only a professional therapist could answer those questions to anyone's satisfaction!
For those of you following the trip, my next posting will be after I return to Baton Rouge on May 8th to finish the journey. Unfortunately Curt will not be able to rejoin me, as he has other important travel plans for an Alaskan summer. June is a busy month for all families; mine is certainly no exception. Pending the approval of the Rodgers Master Calender, I need approximately 31 days to complete this second half, allowing me 4 rest days and 3 to visit on the end. Hopefully, once I regain my rhythm, it will be possible to save some time and return earlier. Instead of following the Great Rivers Route to the west of Nashville to intercept the Transamerican Route which adds hundreds of miles, I intend to strike east of the city and reconnect at the Mammoth Cave National Park loop, an alternate on the T/A Route, which goes east from there to Waynesboro, VA. At that point I turn north through West Virginia and find my way to the Great Allegheny Passage into Pittsburgh.
During several communications with Eric Schwartz (from Commuter Bikes), it was collectively decided to purchase a Brooks Conquest seat. He has graciously loaned me a seat post, since the Koga has an unusual diameter, so I will simply swap them throughout each day as I break in the tough leather saddle. It will add nearly 3 pounds to the load, but I've decided to wear an old pair of running shoes to discard when I arrive at the motel to help compensate for the extra weight. My bike shoes are quite comfortable so I've rarely worn the others. (The shower shoes, however, have been priceless!) Dave, the epitome of southern hospitality, is going to deliver my bike and gear to the motel across from the airport the evening I arrive. (I have added a link to his site.) Nearly everything is ready for the return, except my heavy heart. Both Tracy and I seem so fragile right now. I'm torn. I feel I should stay, yet feel compelled to finish. Perhaps only a professional therapist could answer those questions to anyone's satisfaction!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
