Yes, I had great plans to wrap up this blog. My dad and I broke the Koga down and packaged it for shipping. That was too pricey ($245 through UPS) so I'll probably ebay the next bike at the final destination...or I'll have to begin and end the journey at my driveway. I will say that bike touring is addictive and I would highly recommend it to anyone, especially those with questionable knee problems. I can speak with some authority on equipment choices and the realities of touring. If anyone's interested feel free to contact me with any questions.
I re-assembled the Koga and road tested it since my return. Temperatures are soaring here and outdoor exercise is limited to the very early morning hours. I also signed up for the Top of Utah marathon without considering how difficult summer training is here in southern Nevada. I didn't acclimate to this summer heat because of the bike trip and, although my wind is great, I can only manage 12 miles before the scorching heat grinds me to a stop.
Tracy competed in the Mrs. United States Pageant last week. Although she didn't bring home the national crown, she had another wonderful experience. She will continue her reign as Mrs. Nevada until May 08. The pageant information is on her blog and on the Pageant website listed on the links. The national Pageant should air on the Bravo channel some time in September.
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Friday, June 22, 2007
Friday, June 1, 2007
Trip Journal Post 12: Day 50-54
Day 50: Natural Bridge to Harrisonburg, VA. (68 miles) Leaving the Adventure Cycling maps is a little unnerving, as they provide essential information that mere road maps do not provide. Map Quest for bicycles is nearly useless too. I finally got a road map and aimed for Harrisonburg. The motels were out near the interstate so I had to ride some extra miles.
Day 51: Harrisonburg to Springfield, WV. (100 miles) I peeled out of there fairly early, anxious to put in some miles to get through this transition period. The road maps hold few clues as to the terrain which is important to bikers. I took a road through Lost River State Park--It was the longest, steepest climb yet! Eventually I ended up in Moorefield at about 3pm. The traffic was so heavy that I hung out at Walmart, eating fruit and re-hydrating for an hour. Then I took the Trough road north to Romney, WV., 21 miles away. It was a pretty ride along the Potomac river with very few hills. I ate dinner in Romney, but decided to head onward and camp around Springfield. As it turned out the camp sites were 5 miles to the east and took a series of dirt hill climbs to reach. The logging trucks are still out here, the coal trucks have thinned, and a new truck has been added...live chicken trucks. Feathers are everywhere.
Day 52: Springfield to Frostburg, MD. (45 miles) My legs were tired from climbing all day yesterday. I left the campground late and had breakfast in Fort Ashbey. Arriving in Cumberland during the mid-afternoon, I snapped a picture of the Welcome To Maryland sign. Bike were prohibited on the road I entered town on so I had to scout another route into the old downtown area. Once I reached the Cumberland Terminus they advised the bike route was now officially open all the way to Pittsburgh. I fooled around there for a little while, eventually jumped on the GAP trail from there, and arrived in Frostburg, 14 miles later, during a slight rain. I ended early today, grateful for an excuse to rest.
Day 53: Frostburg to, Confluence, PA. (50 miles) Most of my final miles will be completed on this dirt "rail to trails". I started this cool morning with the sun shining brightly, but rain is expected tonight. There are several tunnels and bridges that are incredibly beautiful additions to the ride. I entered Pennslyvania about 6-7 miles north of Frostburg, and have since crossed over the Continental Divide once again. It divides the Chesapeake Watershed (which I'm leaving) from the Gulf of Mexico Watershed (which I'm re-entering), and, in this case, signifies a slight downhill all the way to Pittsburgh. I feel the momentum slowing, due partly from the beautiful surroundings and partly from the doldrums that must surely accompany the end of such a journey. It's a densely wooded corridor, having a gentle downgrade, smoothly graveled, through a damp, dark canopy of trees and a river always on one side. Often I'm riding beside places with water seeping through the porous slate rock walls covered with moss. I stopped in Myersdale to update the blog site and to grab some lunch. I visited a couple who suggested that I camp in Confluence instead of the more primitive Ohiopyle. It was a great place, right on the river, yet near food and a shower!
Day 54: Confluence to Export, PA. (78 miles) It was still very foggy as I left this morning and I needed the rain jacket to stay warm as I breezed through Ohiopyle State Park. The fly fishermen were out in force along the entire length of the Yough River. I had breakfast with a group of cyclist primarily from Atlanta, who were riding into Washington D.C. and were taking the train back to Pittsburgh. My feet are leaving noticeable drag marks now and I was sorely tempted to join them! Instead I left there and put on a burst of speed, determined to make this the last day. I stopped for a few pictures and a Gatorade, but cycled steadily until I arrived in West Newton. I ate lunch just off the trail and at the bottom of a big hill, that began the final 25 miles towards the home of my parents. After lunch it was a variety of hills and moderately heavy traffic until I arrived at their house 2 1/2 hours later. It was certainly great to see them, to be finished, and to arrive safely after so many miles. The total mileage was 3279...far short of the 4000 I had expected.
There will be a few more postings as I cover any details pertinent to cyclists considering a tour in the near future.
Day 51: Harrisonburg to Springfield, WV. (100 miles) I peeled out of there fairly early, anxious to put in some miles to get through this transition period. The road maps hold few clues as to the terrain which is important to bikers. I took a road through Lost River State Park--It was the longest, steepest climb yet! Eventually I ended up in Moorefield at about 3pm. The traffic was so heavy that I hung out at Walmart, eating fruit and re-hydrating for an hour. Then I took the Trough road north to Romney, WV., 21 miles away. It was a pretty ride along the Potomac river with very few hills. I ate dinner in Romney, but decided to head onward and camp around Springfield. As it turned out the camp sites were 5 miles to the east and took a series of dirt hill climbs to reach. The logging trucks are still out here, the coal trucks have thinned, and a new truck has been added...live chicken trucks. Feathers are everywhere.
Day 52: Springfield to Frostburg, MD. (45 miles) My legs were tired from climbing all day yesterday. I left the campground late and had breakfast in Fort Ashbey. Arriving in Cumberland during the mid-afternoon, I snapped a picture of the Welcome To Maryland sign. Bike were prohibited on the road I entered town on so I had to scout another route into the old downtown area. Once I reached the Cumberland Terminus they advised the bike route was now officially open all the way to Pittsburgh. I fooled around there for a little while, eventually jumped on the GAP trail from there, and arrived in Frostburg, 14 miles later, during a slight rain. I ended early today, grateful for an excuse to rest.
Day 53: Frostburg to, Confluence, PA. (50 miles) Most of my final miles will be completed on this dirt "rail to trails". I started this cool morning with the sun shining brightly, but rain is expected tonight. There are several tunnels and bridges that are incredibly beautiful additions to the ride. I entered Pennslyvania about 6-7 miles north of Frostburg, and have since crossed over the Continental Divide once again. It divides the Chesapeake Watershed (which I'm leaving) from the Gulf of Mexico Watershed (which I'm re-entering), and, in this case, signifies a slight downhill all the way to Pittsburgh. I feel the momentum slowing, due partly from the beautiful surroundings and partly from the doldrums that must surely accompany the end of such a journey. It's a densely wooded corridor, having a gentle downgrade, smoothly graveled, through a damp, dark canopy of trees and a river always on one side. Often I'm riding beside places with water seeping through the porous slate rock walls covered with moss. I stopped in Myersdale to update the blog site and to grab some lunch. I visited a couple who suggested that I camp in Confluence instead of the more primitive Ohiopyle. It was a great place, right on the river, yet near food and a shower!
Day 54: Confluence to Export, PA. (78 miles) It was still very foggy as I left this morning and I needed the rain jacket to stay warm as I breezed through Ohiopyle State Park. The fly fishermen were out in force along the entire length of the Yough River. I had breakfast with a group of cyclist primarily from Atlanta, who were riding into Washington D.C. and were taking the train back to Pittsburgh. My feet are leaving noticeable drag marks now and I was sorely tempted to join them! Instead I left there and put on a burst of speed, determined to make this the last day. I stopped for a few pictures and a Gatorade, but cycled steadily until I arrived in West Newton. I ate lunch just off the trail and at the bottom of a big hill, that began the final 25 miles towards the home of my parents. After lunch it was a variety of hills and moderately heavy traffic until I arrived at their house 2 1/2 hours later. It was certainly great to see them, to be finished, and to arrive safely after so many miles. The total mileage was 3279...far short of the 4000 I had expected.
There will be a few more postings as I cover any details pertinent to cyclists considering a tour in the near future.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Trip Journal Post 11: Days 48-49
Day 48: Damascus to Christiansburg, VA. (115 miles) It was actually hard to overcome the inertia of Damascus! I ate breakfast before I left and visited with several people I'd met the previous day. Somewhat reluctantly I rolled onto the Virginia Creeper Trail, so named for the former railroad passage up through Mt. Rogers. It crosses the Appalachian Trail several times along the way and I rode along it's 11 miles of peaceful dirt trails, passing hikers and bikes along the way. After turning back out onto the Transamerican, the next 25-30 miles were beautiful woods which turned into a lush, green wide valley for miles. Things turned into a blur as I pedaled steadily for the next several hours. I found myself only seven miles from Christianburg before I realized I was tired.
Day 49: Christiansburg to Natural Bridge, VA. (81 miles) When I near the end of motorcycle trips, like a barn sour horse, I find myself in a hurry to be home. This morning I spoke with an older couple who were out on their bicycles for a short weekend trip. They told me about an 8000 miles trip they had taken! It's makes you realize that there is always someone who has done something bigger, longer, greater. Later I met my cousin Linda Exley and her former exchange student, Thomas, near Troutville. We hadn't seen each other for 18 years so we covered a variety of topics. While we visited, a short thunderstorm struck, drenching the bike, but it didn't last and the rest of the day was dry. I stopped at the Natural Bridge site, of of the seven natural wonders of the world, but couldn't negotiate a reduced price just to snap a picture and ride on. Deciding not to pay $12 for a picture, I skipped a postcard too. I'll look at it on the Internet! Out of clean bike clothes, I stopped at a motel where they agreed to wash my stuff for an additional $10. I ate a backpack meal inside the motel room using my stove to heat the water for hot chocolate too.
Day 50: Natural Bridge to
I rode 10 miles into Lexington for breakfast, to stop at the public library, and to ask some questions at the bike shop about an annoying metallic click the bike has developed. I think I'm going to research another course from here because I'm actually going further east than I need to as of today.
Day 49: Christiansburg to Natural Bridge, VA. (81 miles) When I near the end of motorcycle trips, like a barn sour horse, I find myself in a hurry to be home. This morning I spoke with an older couple who were out on their bicycles for a short weekend trip. They told me about an 8000 miles trip they had taken! It's makes you realize that there is always someone who has done something bigger, longer, greater. Later I met my cousin Linda Exley and her former exchange student, Thomas, near Troutville. We hadn't seen each other for 18 years so we covered a variety of topics. While we visited, a short thunderstorm struck, drenching the bike, but it didn't last and the rest of the day was dry. I stopped at the Natural Bridge site, of of the seven natural wonders of the world, but couldn't negotiate a reduced price just to snap a picture and ride on. Deciding not to pay $12 for a picture, I skipped a postcard too. I'll look at it on the Internet! Out of clean bike clothes, I stopped at a motel where they agreed to wash my stuff for an additional $10. I ate a backpack meal inside the motel room using my stove to heat the water for hot chocolate too.
Day 50: Natural Bridge to
I rode 10 miles into Lexington for breakfast, to stop at the public library, and to ask some questions at the bike shop about an annoying metallic click the bike has developed. I think I'm going to research another course from here because I'm actually going further east than I need to as of today.
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Trip Journal Post 10: Days 41-47
Day 41: Glascow to Lebanon, KY (78 miles) It was a splendid day for riding. The pines are gone from the forest, which is thinner and more inviting. Although the sun penetrates easily, it is still very lush and green. Just before arriving in Hogenville, I visited the birthplace of one of my personal heroes, Abraham Lincoln. I nodded through an 18 minute movie, saw his tiny log cabin, read some of his quotations, and my admiration grew larger still. About 3 miles later I ran into two westbound riders. We visited for 20 minutes but I felt the need to push onward, as it was still 43 miles to Springfield. 3 1/2 hours later I arrived in Lebanon instead, 9 miles short of Springfield. I stopped to eat at a Mexican restaurant and only moment later I found some new friends; Blake and Mary Ann Ohsol, who live just down the street, came in and were excited about my bike and the trip. I invited them to eat with me and ended up staying at their home for the night. They are the friendliest, most interesting couple and their energy was a breath of fresh air. Being in their home was very peaceful and thoroughly rejuvenated me!
Day 42: Lebanon to Berea, KY (82 miles) Somewhat reluctantly I left the Ohsons after bacon and eggs. I arrived in Harrodsburg within 4 hours, as I tried to make up getting off to a late start. I made several stops on the way to Berea to rehydrate. Berea, full of history and youthful vigor, is a pretty little college town which caters to primarily the Appalachian mountain area children. Qualified low income kids can attend there for free, but they are required to work at the college during their stay. I camped just south of town at an RV park.
Day 43: Berea to Buckhorn, KY (81 miles) I awoke to another beautiful morning. The tent and sleeping bag had to be stowed wet with dew. I rode back into Berea for breakfast at the famous Daniel Boone Tavern. Then I began a roller-coaster ride into the younger range of the Appalachians. I have always been drawn to the mountains, but, of all the places this trip has taken me, none have called so strongly. Trees cover the knobby hills completely, the fragrance of wild Honeysuckle fills the air, and the unfamiliar but soothing sounds of a wide variety of birds fill the air. These are rugged mountains that test my conditioning as I shift continuously to make the assents. Any knee or quad muscle problems I was having are gone now. Although I'm thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day, I still enjoy it immensely.
Day 44: Buckhorn to Pippa Passes, KY (56 miles) I left the campground this morning and have only stopped for food and Gatorade until I reached Hindman. As I update this blog at the public library, it's pouring rain and I'm not sure about pushing onward. At the moment this town looks like as good a place as any! The rain stopped about the time I finished updating the blog and as I stepped out of the library the sun was shining brightly so I rode on to Pippa Passes where I stayed at a hostel. This was another first and for $7, it was a real bargain. Steve Birge, another cyclist traveling west was there ahead of me and I followed his lead as I unloaded in to the bunk house. We sipped tea and discussed our adventures. We agreed that this could be an addictive lifestyle; Steve had many other trips under his belt.
Day 45: Pippa Passes to Council, VA (87 miles) Steve was an early riser and sounded like a giant pack-rat as he re-stowed his equipment. I took a few pics of the hostel to share with Tracy and headed back into the mountains. Steve had suggested stopping at a restaurant 13 miles ahead, where I had the place to myself and enjoyed a pancake and sausage breakfast. It was another day of climb after climb, but both me and the bike are performing well. I ate lunch in Elkhorn City and considered stopping at the public library. Instead I pressed on through the Breaks Interstate Park between Kentucky and Virginia. It's beautiful and rugged country. I wanted to stop there for a swim but the public access was closed for renovations so I rode on to Haysi, VA., where I ate dinner. The traffic was unbearable, especially the coal trucks. I had intended to stay there but couldn't find anything suitable. The map showed a camping recreation area 17 miles ahead at Council, VA. Turned out it was just a city park, but the covered picnic table made a comfortable bed for the night.
Day 46: Council to Damascus, VA. (54 miles) Mike Pederson, a old friend from Logandale who retired from the Highway Patrol and moved to Charlotte, NC., has arranged to meet at Damascus. I got off to an early start which quickly turned into steep climbs. I ate breakfast in a farmers cafe in Honaker, and as I sat eating I realized that I couldn't decipher I word in ten that was spoken! Virginia is the most beautiful yet. I took some pics of the misty valleys I crossed today. These vistas are really something to behold. I arrived into Damascus by 2pm and threw my laundry in immediately. Mike called right from the same intersection at about 2:30pm. It was really good to see an old friendly face. He had made arrangements to stay at a nearby town, Abingdon, where we ate, went to the movies, and drank Margaritas. It was quite a treat and lifted my spirits even higher than usual.
Day 47: Damascus, VA. We arrived back at the same intersection later in the morning. Mike and I said our goodbyes. Since this is where the Appalachian Trail and the Transamerican Trail bisect, there are plenty of bike and backpack outfitters. My tent is threatening to quit early on me, as one of the nylon suspension rods has shattered, so I thought I would nose around. It's a unique little town to visit and is the access point for the Virginia Creeper Trail, an alternate bike route that will give me an 11 mile sample of off road passage, much like what lies ahead into Pennsylvania. I've decided to finish out the day here and leave in the morning.
Day 42: Lebanon to Berea, KY (82 miles) Somewhat reluctantly I left the Ohsons after bacon and eggs. I arrived in Harrodsburg within 4 hours, as I tried to make up getting off to a late start. I made several stops on the way to Berea to rehydrate. Berea, full of history and youthful vigor, is a pretty little college town which caters to primarily the Appalachian mountain area children. Qualified low income kids can attend there for free, but they are required to work at the college during their stay. I camped just south of town at an RV park.
Day 43: Berea to Buckhorn, KY (81 miles) I awoke to another beautiful morning. The tent and sleeping bag had to be stowed wet with dew. I rode back into Berea for breakfast at the famous Daniel Boone Tavern. Then I began a roller-coaster ride into the younger range of the Appalachians. I have always been drawn to the mountains, but, of all the places this trip has taken me, none have called so strongly. Trees cover the knobby hills completely, the fragrance of wild Honeysuckle fills the air, and the unfamiliar but soothing sounds of a wide variety of birds fill the air. These are rugged mountains that test my conditioning as I shift continuously to make the assents. Any knee or quad muscle problems I was having are gone now. Although I'm thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day, I still enjoy it immensely.
Day 44: Buckhorn to Pippa Passes, KY (56 miles) I left the campground this morning and have only stopped for food and Gatorade until I reached Hindman. As I update this blog at the public library, it's pouring rain and I'm not sure about pushing onward. At the moment this town looks like as good a place as any! The rain stopped about the time I finished updating the blog and as I stepped out of the library the sun was shining brightly so I rode on to Pippa Passes where I stayed at a hostel. This was another first and for $7, it was a real bargain. Steve Birge, another cyclist traveling west was there ahead of me and I followed his lead as I unloaded in to the bunk house. We sipped tea and discussed our adventures. We agreed that this could be an addictive lifestyle; Steve had many other trips under his belt.
Day 45: Pippa Passes to Council, VA (87 miles) Steve was an early riser and sounded like a giant pack-rat as he re-stowed his equipment. I took a few pics of the hostel to share with Tracy and headed back into the mountains. Steve had suggested stopping at a restaurant 13 miles ahead, where I had the place to myself and enjoyed a pancake and sausage breakfast. It was another day of climb after climb, but both me and the bike are performing well. I ate lunch in Elkhorn City and considered stopping at the public library. Instead I pressed on through the Breaks Interstate Park between Kentucky and Virginia. It's beautiful and rugged country. I wanted to stop there for a swim but the public access was closed for renovations so I rode on to Haysi, VA., where I ate dinner. The traffic was unbearable, especially the coal trucks. I had intended to stay there but couldn't find anything suitable. The map showed a camping recreation area 17 miles ahead at Council, VA. Turned out it was just a city park, but the covered picnic table made a comfortable bed for the night.
Day 46: Council to Damascus, VA. (54 miles) Mike Pederson, a old friend from Logandale who retired from the Highway Patrol and moved to Charlotte, NC., has arranged to meet at Damascus. I got off to an early start which quickly turned into steep climbs. I ate breakfast in a farmers cafe in Honaker, and as I sat eating I realized that I couldn't decipher I word in ten that was spoken! Virginia is the most beautiful yet. I took some pics of the misty valleys I crossed today. These vistas are really something to behold. I arrived into Damascus by 2pm and threw my laundry in immediately. Mike called right from the same intersection at about 2:30pm. It was really good to see an old friendly face. He had made arrangements to stay at a nearby town, Abingdon, where we ate, went to the movies, and drank Margaritas. It was quite a treat and lifted my spirits even higher than usual.
Day 47: Damascus, VA. We arrived back at the same intersection later in the morning. Mike and I said our goodbyes. Since this is where the Appalachian Trail and the Transamerican Trail bisect, there are plenty of bike and backpack outfitters. My tent is threatening to quit early on me, as one of the nylon suspension rods has shattered, so I thought I would nose around. It's a unique little town to visit and is the access point for the Virginia Creeper Trail, an alternate bike route that will give me an 11 mile sample of off road passage, much like what lies ahead into Pennsylvania. I've decided to finish out the day here and leave in the morning.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Trip Journal Post 9: Days 36-40
Day 36: Fooling Around Tupelo, MS (10 miles) Although I took the day off to mend the knee, I feel restless. There's wet weather expected tonight and tomorrow. My knee is fine when not pedaling but I climbed aboard and went in search of a bike shop. (I could write some reviews on the equipment for this trip. My second pair of gloves were the high dollar gel Treks but the gel leaked in the compartments where it's needed most.) While at the bike shop I picked up some stove fuel, greased my pedals, and got another freeze-dried food packet. I discovered too late that the house where Elvis Presley was born was only 8 miles away; It would have been dark in an hour.
Day 37: Tupelo to Glenrock Picnic Area, TN (104 miles) I left town in a misty drizzle. The characteristics of the terrain are beginning to change. The pines are giving in to hardwoods; limestone outcroppings are evident; The mild swells are hills once again. The character of the ride is changing subtly too. Alone with my thoughts, they wander less in the dark each day. The joy of the effort is slowly returning. Erinn, while most certainly out of my reach, is just as certainly communing with the Lord. Tears will probably always sting my eyes when I think of her. I caught almost all of the scenic pull-offs along the Trace today. The drizzle turned briefly to rain and, by mid-afternoon, the sun was out on full force. I managed to bicycle in three states today: 46 miles in MS, 33 miles in Alabama, and 25 miles into TN! My right quad is holding but still complaining. I camped along a babbling stream at a picnic area.
Day 38: Glenrock Branch to Franklin, TN (78 miles) It was only about 45 degrees as I repacked this morning. I was grateful to have my Oregon shirt, hat, and glove liners. It was 42 miles before I found a place to eat breakfast. I jumped off the Trace at Hwy 412 at Fall Hallow Bed and Breakfast. I enjoyed visiting with the owners so much that I was still there 2.5 hours later! After that I put my head down and pedaled only looking at some of the sights.I said goodbye the the Natchez Trace Parkway at Leipers Fork and skidded into a motel at Franklin.
Day 39: Franklin to Gallantin, TN (42 miles) I left town on Hwy 31E going directly into Nashville. Just south of Nashville were numerous multi-million dollar homes. Surprisingly I saw an REI store along the route and traded my defective "inflatable" sleeping pad for one that actually works. When I explained that it was no fun blowing it back up all night, they were very gracious about it. Shortly afterward I arrived in downtown Nashville. I shot some picture of the contrast between the old and the new there, and, naturally, got a shot posing with a plastic Elvis. I pushed onward through the urban sprawl until Gallatin, where I was offered a meal and a place to stay by a passing motorist/cyclist/Air Force surgeon. I foolishly declined, wanting to push onward for another 2 hours, but, when I paused for a moment to look at the map, I realized there wasn't anything ahead in that range. I ended the evening camped at the Gallantin Civic Center, where they allowed me the use of their shower facility the following morning.
Day 40: Gallanin to Glasgow, KY (60 miles) The urban sprawl was easier to deal with than the lack of shoulder as I continued to aim towards reconnecting with the Transamerican Route. It started out 6' wide as I left Gallantin, but turned to 8" with a 10" rumble strip once in Kentucy. I stopped in Westmoreland and visited with Steve Barron, owner of the Shell station, for over an hour. I finally decided to quit early to get my laundry done and to update the blog in Glasgow, KY.
Day 37: Tupelo to Glenrock Picnic Area, TN (104 miles) I left town in a misty drizzle. The characteristics of the terrain are beginning to change. The pines are giving in to hardwoods; limestone outcroppings are evident; The mild swells are hills once again. The character of the ride is changing subtly too. Alone with my thoughts, they wander less in the dark each day. The joy of the effort is slowly returning. Erinn, while most certainly out of my reach, is just as certainly communing with the Lord. Tears will probably always sting my eyes when I think of her. I caught almost all of the scenic pull-offs along the Trace today. The drizzle turned briefly to rain and, by mid-afternoon, the sun was out on full force. I managed to bicycle in three states today: 46 miles in MS, 33 miles in Alabama, and 25 miles into TN! My right quad is holding but still complaining. I camped along a babbling stream at a picnic area.
Day 38: Glenrock Branch to Franklin, TN (78 miles) It was only about 45 degrees as I repacked this morning. I was grateful to have my Oregon shirt, hat, and glove liners. It was 42 miles before I found a place to eat breakfast. I jumped off the Trace at Hwy 412 at Fall Hallow Bed and Breakfast. I enjoyed visiting with the owners so much that I was still there 2.5 hours later! After that I put my head down and pedaled only looking at some of the sights.I said goodbye the the Natchez Trace Parkway at Leipers Fork and skidded into a motel at Franklin.
Day 39: Franklin to Gallantin, TN (42 miles) I left town on Hwy 31E going directly into Nashville. Just south of Nashville were numerous multi-million dollar homes. Surprisingly I saw an REI store along the route and traded my defective "inflatable" sleeping pad for one that actually works. When I explained that it was no fun blowing it back up all night, they were very gracious about it. Shortly afterward I arrived in downtown Nashville. I shot some picture of the contrast between the old and the new there, and, naturally, got a shot posing with a plastic Elvis. I pushed onward through the urban sprawl until Gallatin, where I was offered a meal and a place to stay by a passing motorist/cyclist/Air Force surgeon. I foolishly declined, wanting to push onward for another 2 hours, but, when I paused for a moment to look at the map, I realized there wasn't anything ahead in that range. I ended the evening camped at the Gallantin Civic Center, where they allowed me the use of their shower facility the following morning.
Day 40: Gallanin to Glasgow, KY (60 miles) The urban sprawl was easier to deal with than the lack of shoulder as I continued to aim towards reconnecting with the Transamerican Route. It started out 6' wide as I left Gallantin, but turned to 8" with a 10" rumble strip once in Kentucy. I stopped in Westmoreland and visited with Steve Barron, owner of the Shell station, for over an hour. I finally decided to quit early to get my laundry done and to update the blog in Glasgow, KY.
Wednesday, May 9, 2007
Trip Journal Post 8: Days 29- 35
Day 29: Return to Baton Rouge (0 miles) It was an uneventful flight into Baton Rouge. After deplaning I walked the .5 mile to the Supreme Inn across the street and checked in. I also contacted Dave from Dave's mobile bike repair (the links been added) to arrange the return of the Koga. I had contacted Dave in the middle of a crisis; His response was priceless. He drove up to New Roads (30 miles away), collected me and the bike, dropped me at the motel across from the airport, and stored the bike while I was gone. Dave and his wife dropped it by the motel this evening and, after a short visit, I began to repack for the first day.
Day 30: Baton Rouge to Centreville, MS (71 miles) After a hardy continental breakfast I left the motel at 7AM. I wasn't hungry in St. Francesville so I rode the ferry back to New Roads and came right back. I just needed to complete the circuit as part of my mourning process. Between getting to the ferry and eating in Jackson, it added 6 miles to the trip. The next section was dense forest with occasional fan palms and a sprinkling of wild flowers. I entered Mississippi right after Norwood, but it was with a flat tire. When I noticed the flat I just limped it over the state line to make the repairs. That night I stayed at Rose Hall, a BnB in Centreville, and enjoyed both dinner and breakfast with owners, John and Jacque.
Day 31: Centreville to Port Gibson, MS. (92 miles) Right after leaving the town of Centreville, I spent the next 2 hours being chased by dogs. It was 46 miles into Natchez, and after lunch the course merges onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. The Trace doesn't allow commercial vehicles and I quickly learned there usually isn't much traffic either. The trees are packed tightly with little sun penetrating to the forest floor. The humidity is now so high that my evaporation system can't keep up.
Day 32: Port Gibson to Ridgeland, MS. (71 miles) While eating breakfast from a nearby gas station, I laundered all my bike clothes. The Trace is a bikers delight. There are some places under construction, but, as in life, it makes us steer a narrower course. The humidity and yesterdays mileage has sapped my energy. I rode 46 miles before finding a place to eat. Once I arrived in Clinton, I had to ride off course several miles to find a restaurant. It worked out well though with a post office across the street, as I needed to ship my other bike seat home and the seat post back to Commuter Bikes. If you have been wondering why I quit talking about the bike seat problems, it's because the leather Brooks saddle has been working very well. I started rubbing conditioner into the surface while on the flight out here and continue to soften the leather daily. It might look exceedingly uncomfortable, but, in fact, it's no wonder that so many people swear by them. Concern for my rear end is no longer an issue! I rode another 14 miles into Ridgeland, MS.
Day 33: Ridgeland to Kosciusko, MS (60 miles) Something is amuck with the medial side of my right quad at the knee. After three days I'd hoped to find my rhythm again, but the sharp knee pain isn't helping. I continue on the Trace until Nashville, TN. Forced to slow the pace, I spent the day stopping to see the posted sights. My favorite was a Cypress swamp. It was soothing to the soul to see the sights and reflections surrounding the swamp, and to hear the odd array of unfamiliar sounds. There was a wooden foot bridge suspended over the water, and as I walked across another visitor pointed out a 6' alligator cruising through the mossy water within my reach. It stopped to stare and afforded me a great photo opportunity! By mid-afternoon my knee threatened mutiny so I limped into Kosciusko, MS. I readjusted my seat slightly lower since it could be the cause. And maybe a shorter day will help.
Day 34: Kosciusko to Witch Dance Campground (74 miles) The cool morning was a welcome relief from the afternoon heat and humidity. I headed to French Camp, MS., where I hoped to enjoy a hearty breakfast, but when I arrived 22 miles later, everything was closed. Oddly enough there was an open laundromat right near the Trace where I dried yesterdays wet clothes. Thirteen miles later I had one of my freeze dried dinner packets for lunch at a gas station at Jeff Bugby Park. It really hit the spot, but my knee was giving me grief once again. The searing pain has not returned. The goal of Tupelo at 103 miles receded into the distance though. I was more than pleased to strike a primitive camp at Witch Dance picnic area. Supposedly witches once danced there and no grass would grow where their feet touched. They must have danced as much as I have because I camped on a beautiful stretch of turf! I took some pictures of the Old Trace Trail today. I doubt they will do it justice, for it's like a freeway cut out of the forest much like the one in the Last of the Mohicans. It strange to tread where the likes of Fernando De Soto and the "Kaintucks" have gone so long before! For those of you interested in the Trace, it was a series of Indian trails eventually turned into a postal route and used by the flat boatmen traveling down the Mississippi as their route home.
Day 35: Witch Dance to Tupelo, MS (36 miles) I was up with the sun, packed quickly, and was on the road within 30 minutes. Pedaling slowly to give my knee proper warm-up time, it started pinging immediately. Thirty miles later I took the first exit into Tupelo, convinced the ideal breakfast was just around the corner, only to find the first Starbucks since I left Phoenix. Naturally that warranted a prolonged stop where I visited with the manager, who bought my coffee, and with two local park rangers who made a recommendation to ride another 6 miles to the next exit where everything I required would be at hand. It was a cornucopia of restaurants, a great motel, theaters, and a mall. The motel has a lobby computer available where I have updated the site and done my required banking, since I seem to spend so many more days in motels than I expected! Tomorrow is a leisure day while I hope to give my knee recovery time.
Day 30: Baton Rouge to Centreville, MS (71 miles) After a hardy continental breakfast I left the motel at 7AM. I wasn't hungry in St. Francesville so I rode the ferry back to New Roads and came right back. I just needed to complete the circuit as part of my mourning process. Between getting to the ferry and eating in Jackson, it added 6 miles to the trip. The next section was dense forest with occasional fan palms and a sprinkling of wild flowers. I entered Mississippi right after Norwood, but it was with a flat tire. When I noticed the flat I just limped it over the state line to make the repairs. That night I stayed at Rose Hall, a BnB in Centreville, and enjoyed both dinner and breakfast with owners, John and Jacque.
Day 31: Centreville to Port Gibson, MS. (92 miles) Right after leaving the town of Centreville, I spent the next 2 hours being chased by dogs. It was 46 miles into Natchez, and after lunch the course merges onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. The Trace doesn't allow commercial vehicles and I quickly learned there usually isn't much traffic either. The trees are packed tightly with little sun penetrating to the forest floor. The humidity is now so high that my evaporation system can't keep up.
Day 32: Port Gibson to Ridgeland, MS. (71 miles) While eating breakfast from a nearby gas station, I laundered all my bike clothes. The Trace is a bikers delight. There are some places under construction, but, as in life, it makes us steer a narrower course. The humidity and yesterdays mileage has sapped my energy. I rode 46 miles before finding a place to eat. Once I arrived in Clinton, I had to ride off course several miles to find a restaurant. It worked out well though with a post office across the street, as I needed to ship my other bike seat home and the seat post back to Commuter Bikes. If you have been wondering why I quit talking about the bike seat problems, it's because the leather Brooks saddle has been working very well. I started rubbing conditioner into the surface while on the flight out here and continue to soften the leather daily. It might look exceedingly uncomfortable, but, in fact, it's no wonder that so many people swear by them. Concern for my rear end is no longer an issue! I rode another 14 miles into Ridgeland, MS.
Day 33: Ridgeland to Kosciusko, MS (60 miles) Something is amuck with the medial side of my right quad at the knee. After three days I'd hoped to find my rhythm again, but the sharp knee pain isn't helping. I continue on the Trace until Nashville, TN. Forced to slow the pace, I spent the day stopping to see the posted sights. My favorite was a Cypress swamp. It was soothing to the soul to see the sights and reflections surrounding the swamp, and to hear the odd array of unfamiliar sounds. There was a wooden foot bridge suspended over the water, and as I walked across another visitor pointed out a 6' alligator cruising through the mossy water within my reach. It stopped to stare and afforded me a great photo opportunity! By mid-afternoon my knee threatened mutiny so I limped into Kosciusko, MS. I readjusted my seat slightly lower since it could be the cause. And maybe a shorter day will help.
Day 34: Kosciusko to Witch Dance Campground (74 miles) The cool morning was a welcome relief from the afternoon heat and humidity. I headed to French Camp, MS., where I hoped to enjoy a hearty breakfast, but when I arrived 22 miles later, everything was closed. Oddly enough there was an open laundromat right near the Trace where I dried yesterdays wet clothes. Thirteen miles later I had one of my freeze dried dinner packets for lunch at a gas station at Jeff Bugby Park. It really hit the spot, but my knee was giving me grief once again. The searing pain has not returned. The goal of Tupelo at 103 miles receded into the distance though. I was more than pleased to strike a primitive camp at Witch Dance picnic area. Supposedly witches once danced there and no grass would grow where their feet touched. They must have danced as much as I have because I camped on a beautiful stretch of turf! I took some pictures of the Old Trace Trail today. I doubt they will do it justice, for it's like a freeway cut out of the forest much like the one in the Last of the Mohicans. It strange to tread where the likes of Fernando De Soto and the "Kaintucks" have gone so long before! For those of you interested in the Trace, it was a series of Indian trails eventually turned into a postal route and used by the flat boatmen traveling down the Mississippi as their route home.
Day 35: Witch Dance to Tupelo, MS (36 miles) I was up with the sun, packed quickly, and was on the road within 30 minutes. Pedaling slowly to give my knee proper warm-up time, it started pinging immediately. Thirty miles later I took the first exit into Tupelo, convinced the ideal breakfast was just around the corner, only to find the first Starbucks since I left Phoenix. Naturally that warranted a prolonged stop where I visited with the manager, who bought my coffee, and with two local park rangers who made a recommendation to ride another 6 miles to the next exit where everything I required would be at hand. It was a cornucopia of restaurants, a great motel, theaters, and a mall. The motel has a lobby computer available where I have updated the site and done my required banking, since I seem to spend so many more days in motels than I expected! Tomorrow is a leisure day while I hope to give my knee recovery time.
Thursday, May 3, 2007
Trip Journal Post 7: The Return to Baton Rouge
Thank you all for your comments and for your prayers. Both my family and Peggy's are so very heartbroken. We said goodbye to my baby girl, Erinn, on Wednesday May 2, 2007 at her viewing and memorial service. I was deeply touched by the standing room only crowd that attended. Erinn's death has raised many questions, some of which will remain unanswered. As her father and a former policeman, it is intensely frustrating to wonder what happened in those final hours. But as a father and a Christian, I stand on the deeply reassuring authority of the Bible and know that I will see Erinn again in heaven. I ran nearly 20 miles in the two days preceding her service trying to ease this pain in my heart. It may seem strange to some but returning to the exertion of bike touring seems essential right now.
For those of you following the trip, my next posting will be after I return to Baton Rouge on May 8th to finish the journey. Unfortunately Curt will not be able to rejoin me, as he has other important travel plans for an Alaskan summer. June is a busy month for all families; mine is certainly no exception. Pending the approval of the Rodgers Master Calender, I need approximately 31 days to complete this second half, allowing me 4 rest days and 3 to visit on the end. Hopefully, once I regain my rhythm, it will be possible to save some time and return earlier. Instead of following the Great Rivers Route to the west of Nashville to intercept the Transamerican Route which adds hundreds of miles, I intend to strike east of the city and reconnect at the Mammoth Cave National Park loop, an alternate on the T/A Route, which goes east from there to Waynesboro, VA. At that point I turn north through West Virginia and find my way to the Great Allegheny Passage into Pittsburgh.
During several communications with Eric Schwartz (from Commuter Bikes), it was collectively decided to purchase a Brooks Conquest seat. He has graciously loaned me a seat post, since the Koga has an unusual diameter, so I will simply swap them throughout each day as I break in the tough leather saddle. It will add nearly 3 pounds to the load, but I've decided to wear an old pair of running shoes to discard when I arrive at the motel to help compensate for the extra weight. My bike shoes are quite comfortable so I've rarely worn the others. (The shower shoes, however, have been priceless!) Dave, the epitome of southern hospitality, is going to deliver my bike and gear to the motel across from the airport the evening I arrive. (I have added a link to his site.) Nearly everything is ready for the return, except my heavy heart. Both Tracy and I seem so fragile right now. I'm torn. I feel I should stay, yet feel compelled to finish. Perhaps only a professional therapist could answer those questions to anyone's satisfaction!
For those of you following the trip, my next posting will be after I return to Baton Rouge on May 8th to finish the journey. Unfortunately Curt will not be able to rejoin me, as he has other important travel plans for an Alaskan summer. June is a busy month for all families; mine is certainly no exception. Pending the approval of the Rodgers Master Calender, I need approximately 31 days to complete this second half, allowing me 4 rest days and 3 to visit on the end. Hopefully, once I regain my rhythm, it will be possible to save some time and return earlier. Instead of following the Great Rivers Route to the west of Nashville to intercept the Transamerican Route which adds hundreds of miles, I intend to strike east of the city and reconnect at the Mammoth Cave National Park loop, an alternate on the T/A Route, which goes east from there to Waynesboro, VA. At that point I turn north through West Virginia and find my way to the Great Allegheny Passage into Pittsburgh.
During several communications with Eric Schwartz (from Commuter Bikes), it was collectively decided to purchase a Brooks Conquest seat. He has graciously loaned me a seat post, since the Koga has an unusual diameter, so I will simply swap them throughout each day as I break in the tough leather saddle. It will add nearly 3 pounds to the load, but I've decided to wear an old pair of running shoes to discard when I arrive at the motel to help compensate for the extra weight. My bike shoes are quite comfortable so I've rarely worn the others. (The shower shoes, however, have been priceless!) Dave, the epitome of southern hospitality, is going to deliver my bike and gear to the motel across from the airport the evening I arrive. (I have added a link to his site.) Nearly everything is ready for the return, except my heavy heart. Both Tracy and I seem so fragile right now. I'm torn. I feel I should stay, yet feel compelled to finish. Perhaps only a professional therapist could answer those questions to anyone's satisfaction!
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
Trip Journal Post 6: Days 21-28
Day 21: Bastop to Sommersville Lake, TX. (76 miles) Curt was still lounging in bed as I left this morning, cycling slowly through the dense fog covering the old historic district of Bastrop. It was just beginning to lift as I entered Bastrop State Park, a real gem along this route! It was breathtakingly beautiful for not only the serene, dense pine forest but the short steep climbs. The sun barely penetrates to the secondary growth on the forest floor, and my arms and legs are damp as I pedal through the hundreds of strands of spider webs crossing the road. Somewhere along the road I saw an unencumbered road biker coming up behind. As he passed me on a short, flat section, I kicked it up a notch and caught him on the next steep hill. He looked to be in good shape, but I was having a testosterone moment. I passed him on the steep ascent and held him off for the next 3 miles. I last saw him at the base of another steep section as he stopped to catch his breath. I pushed a little harder, gaining momentum on a downhill, when a doe burst from the bushes, cutting crossed my path only 15' away. It would've been a tragic but humorous end to the trip...I slowed down, started snapping some pictures, and glided through Buescher State Park too. The humidity is so high here that it's the first time I've seen Spanish Moss hanging on the trees. Later I had dinner in Burton where I met a white Rastafarian sitting inside the only open cafe. He's traveling west on a Horizon incumbent and has a drop foot! Sheesh, he makes me feel like I'm just fooling around. He said he didn't talk much but never stopped telling odd, sniper kill stories from Vietnam throughout the entire meal. I gladly said goodbye and continued on to Sommersville Lake. It was 6 miles out of the way, but I enjoyed a free shower and "gorilla" camped in a field, sleeping clean and comfortable in my tent until sunrise.
Day 22: Sommerville Lake to Plumb, TX. (88m) I awoke to another wet, foggy morning. The tent was drenched as I repacked it and my laundry was even wetter. I had breakfast at an intersection gas station and visited with a fisherman from nearby Lake Conroe. I took several pics on the way to Navasota, as I took the Texas Independence Trail east. At Navasota I dried my clothes at a laundromat and enjoyed a Pizza Hut buffet. Afterward was the Sam Houston National Recreation Area. Lake Conroe is within it's border and there must be some great mountain bike trails, as I passed not less than 6 bike crossing signs along the highway. Earlier I had seen a aerial photo of an alligator swimming across a lake with a full sized doe in it's mouth that was supposedly taken at Lake Conroe! As I was riding along I heard some rustling in the grass along the shoulder of the road and stopped to investigate. It turned out to be three baby Armadillos cavorting in a mud hole and they never even heard me as I snuck up on them with the camera. I pushed on to New Waverly where I stopped for dinner at the New Waverly House. I was still hungry after dinner so they gave me an extra piece on peach pie for the road. There wasn't anywhere close to stay so I slugged out 13 more miles until I saw an RV park in Plumb. It was a great place to stay, with big, clean showers, a well-stocked, common game room, and hot tub. I'm glad I didn't miss it. They were a great example of what bike tourers need..and all for only $10!
Day 23: Plumb to Kountze, TX. (71 m) Dense fog and wet conditions again this morning. I think I'm coming down with the same cold Curt caught. I had to dry my clothes in the clubhouse and didn't get out of there until after 10am. I had some energy bars for breakfast and lunch in Shepard. It was a hard push into Kountze against 8-10mph winds. Dinner was a Cajun buffet so I tried all the dishes. Gumbo is still my favorite. The patrons and the employees were all very friendly and I got to telling stories to a nearby table of two couples. When I went to pay my bill I was told it was taken care of. They wouldn't tell me who to thank, and I left with a full belly. I shot down the block to a nearby Motel 8, took the first of my anti-biotics, as the cold is setting in, and did laundry. I was running a fever so I had a hard time going to sleep.
Day 24: Kountze to De Ridder, LA. (87m) I got off to a late start this morning, had the continental breakfast, and headed out about 9am. I stopped several times today to eat and drink plenty. The cold has my energy level down and, while passing over Big Cow creek, I noticed a county park with big shade trees so I stopped for a power nap. After 20 minutes I awoke and continued rolling toward Bon Weir. There is a Georgia Pacific plywood plant there and a Boise paper plant a little further east which explains all the logging trucks roaring passed all day. I crossed into Louisiana over the Sabine river. They didn't have a welcome sign so I shot a picture of the Texas sign going the west. With great relief I arrived in Merrysville, but didn't see anywhere to stay so I pressed on to De Ridder instead. I arrived with both sore wrists and a sore bum. Since I'm still feeling the effects of the cold I checked into the bike friendly Stagecoach Inn.
Day 25: De Ridder to Opelousas, LA. (85 m) Left De Ridder after the continental breakfast at about 9am. I'm adjusting to the humidity, but it isn't helping my cold much. I'm damp about 5 minutes into the ride and stay that way all day. I passed over the Calcasieu river and noticed hundreds of canoes to rent. I was really tempted to stop for the day for a lazy float, but I had missed a group that had recently departed. I had lunch in Oberlin, but couldn't locate the library. I ran into my first east to west"er", Brian, who is a New York City musician, doing the entire Southern Tier. He told me there is a group just 3 miles ahead of me going east. I tried to catch them but he said they have a sag wagon. I slid into Opelousas just after 5pm, when the library closed. I got off course somewhere near the city. These Parish roads are the worst I've seen so far. They don't seem to have any adopt a highway system here either so the garbage just piles up alongside the road and it would require a four wheel drive lawnmower to maintaining the roads as they have nearly been overgrown by grass. It was really a bum pounder through Evangelene Parish as the bike thumped over crack after crack! I called Curt tonite. He is having trouble shaking the cold and was trying too hard to catch up. We talked about our schedules again and he found out he has two extra days to get to St. Francesville. Since Tracy is coming into Baton Rouge this coming Sunday, I'm going to spend an extra day or two here instead of in the smaller town of St. Francisville, LA. It will give me some time to shake this cold too. I'm only 110 miles from our rendezvous now.
Day 26: Rest day in Opelousas, LA. (Just fun miles) I'm at the city library, where they're ready to kick me out for taking too long to update this blog. I'll label the pics Tracy posted as soon as I get the opportunity. My cold is finally fading. I took the bike without gear around the town today. It's light and nimble, but the roads are rough, dangerous, and covered with loose piles of gravel. I was eating lunch at the Palace Cafe downtown and one of the patrons stopped to visit. We discussed political views, cycling, and life in general before we were through. His name is Brad Jackson (Work #942-9984) and he has some nice apartments on Grolee St. in Opelousas that he rents to touring cyclists. I spoke with Curt later and recommended that he call if he stays there. It would be far more safe and comfortable than the Budget Inn! Afterward I went over to the Visitors Center where they have moved a collection of old buildings.
Day 27: Opelousas to New Roads, LA. (57 miles) It felt good to move on today. The beginning of the course meanders along the perimeter of the Thistlewaite Wildlife Management Area which was virtually traffic-free. I had lunch at Lebeau, LA. where I enjoyed the best spaghetti. I took some pictures of a 135 lb. snapping turtle on display. One of the locals had caught it in a nearby channel..and I've been looking for the little ones! At this point I decided to deviate from the course once again and strike for the Atchafalaya river crossing in Melville and save 62 miles. The actual route goes another day north to avoid the ferry but I can feel a big storm brewing. Unfortunately once I arrived I learned that the ferry had been out for two days and will be for 2 more months. The dilemma before me was to tack on another 70 miles or to sneak across the railroad bridge. I sacked out on the river for a short power nap and waited for the bridge operator to raise it for a passing boat. Gambling that a train wasn't going to be coming soon, I shot across the metal catwalk for 1/4 mile as soon as the center was lowered and slid down the other side, just missing treading on a big snake, and onto a dirt road. I followed the most heavily-used, but unmarked route for about 5-6 miles until I returned to the pavement. At this point I could smell the rain coming and the clouds looked threatening. Just before I entered Morganza the downpour started and it didn't quit for the rest of the night. I squished into New Roads, LA nearly in the dark (although it was only 4:30) and checked into the first motel I saw. I got drenched two more times when I ran to and from dinner later. The motel clerk said there were tornado warning in effect for the evening. I will spend the next several days here while I kill time waiting for Tracy to arrive across the Mississippi river in St. Francisville.
Day 28: Day off in New Roads, LA. I'm sitting in the library in New Roads as I wait for both Tracy and Curt to arrive. Tracy will come in on Sunday afternoon via Baton Rouge and stay until Tuesday morning; Curt is riding from De Ridder, LA., but has wisely opted not to try crossing the railroad trestle at Melville and plans on arriving by Monday.
As of this entry later the same day, I am sitting in the business room of a motel across from the Baton Rouge Airport and will fly home in the morning. Shortly after lunch I recieved some tragic personal news that my daughter, Erinn, age 22, was found dead in her home; Her former boyfriend was also dead at the scene. I've spoken with the Coroners office and the Homicide detective sergeant Mike Thompson, a friend of mine, in Las Vegas. The cause of death has not yet been determined, but it's being treated as a homicide pending the outcome of an autopsy in the morning. Please be in prayer for my family during this tragedy.
Day 22: Sommerville Lake to Plumb, TX. (88m) I awoke to another wet, foggy morning. The tent was drenched as I repacked it and my laundry was even wetter. I had breakfast at an intersection gas station and visited with a fisherman from nearby Lake Conroe. I took several pics on the way to Navasota, as I took the Texas Independence Trail east. At Navasota I dried my clothes at a laundromat and enjoyed a Pizza Hut buffet. Afterward was the Sam Houston National Recreation Area. Lake Conroe is within it's border and there must be some great mountain bike trails, as I passed not less than 6 bike crossing signs along the highway. Earlier I had seen a aerial photo of an alligator swimming across a lake with a full sized doe in it's mouth that was supposedly taken at Lake Conroe! As I was riding along I heard some rustling in the grass along the shoulder of the road and stopped to investigate. It turned out to be three baby Armadillos cavorting in a mud hole and they never even heard me as I snuck up on them with the camera. I pushed on to New Waverly where I stopped for dinner at the New Waverly House. I was still hungry after dinner so they gave me an extra piece on peach pie for the road. There wasn't anywhere close to stay so I slugged out 13 more miles until I saw an RV park in Plumb. It was a great place to stay, with big, clean showers, a well-stocked, common game room, and hot tub. I'm glad I didn't miss it. They were a great example of what bike tourers need..and all for only $10!
Day 23: Plumb to Kountze, TX. (71 m) Dense fog and wet conditions again this morning. I think I'm coming down with the same cold Curt caught. I had to dry my clothes in the clubhouse and didn't get out of there until after 10am. I had some energy bars for breakfast and lunch in Shepard. It was a hard push into Kountze against 8-10mph winds. Dinner was a Cajun buffet so I tried all the dishes. Gumbo is still my favorite. The patrons and the employees were all very friendly and I got to telling stories to a nearby table of two couples. When I went to pay my bill I was told it was taken care of. They wouldn't tell me who to thank, and I left with a full belly. I shot down the block to a nearby Motel 8, took the first of my anti-biotics, as the cold is setting in, and did laundry. I was running a fever so I had a hard time going to sleep.
Day 24: Kountze to De Ridder, LA. (87m) I got off to a late start this morning, had the continental breakfast, and headed out about 9am. I stopped several times today to eat and drink plenty. The cold has my energy level down and, while passing over Big Cow creek, I noticed a county park with big shade trees so I stopped for a power nap. After 20 minutes I awoke and continued rolling toward Bon Weir. There is a Georgia Pacific plywood plant there and a Boise paper plant a little further east which explains all the logging trucks roaring passed all day. I crossed into Louisiana over the Sabine river. They didn't have a welcome sign so I shot a picture of the Texas sign going the west. With great relief I arrived in Merrysville, but didn't see anywhere to stay so I pressed on to De Ridder instead. I arrived with both sore wrists and a sore bum. Since I'm still feeling the effects of the cold I checked into the bike friendly Stagecoach Inn.
Day 25: De Ridder to Opelousas, LA. (85 m) Left De Ridder after the continental breakfast at about 9am. I'm adjusting to the humidity, but it isn't helping my cold much. I'm damp about 5 minutes into the ride and stay that way all day. I passed over the Calcasieu river and noticed hundreds of canoes to rent. I was really tempted to stop for the day for a lazy float, but I had missed a group that had recently departed. I had lunch in Oberlin, but couldn't locate the library. I ran into my first east to west"er", Brian, who is a New York City musician, doing the entire Southern Tier. He told me there is a group just 3 miles ahead of me going east. I tried to catch them but he said they have a sag wagon. I slid into Opelousas just after 5pm, when the library closed. I got off course somewhere near the city. These Parish roads are the worst I've seen so far. They don't seem to have any adopt a highway system here either so the garbage just piles up alongside the road and it would require a four wheel drive lawnmower to maintaining the roads as they have nearly been overgrown by grass. It was really a bum pounder through Evangelene Parish as the bike thumped over crack after crack! I called Curt tonite. He is having trouble shaking the cold and was trying too hard to catch up. We talked about our schedules again and he found out he has two extra days to get to St. Francesville. Since Tracy is coming into Baton Rouge this coming Sunday, I'm going to spend an extra day or two here instead of in the smaller town of St. Francisville, LA. It will give me some time to shake this cold too. I'm only 110 miles from our rendezvous now.
Day 26: Rest day in Opelousas, LA. (Just fun miles) I'm at the city library, where they're ready to kick me out for taking too long to update this blog. I'll label the pics Tracy posted as soon as I get the opportunity. My cold is finally fading. I took the bike without gear around the town today. It's light and nimble, but the roads are rough, dangerous, and covered with loose piles of gravel. I was eating lunch at the Palace Cafe downtown and one of the patrons stopped to visit. We discussed political views, cycling, and life in general before we were through. His name is Brad Jackson (Work #942-9984) and he has some nice apartments on Grolee St. in Opelousas that he rents to touring cyclists. I spoke with Curt later and recommended that he call if he stays there. It would be far more safe and comfortable than the Budget Inn! Afterward I went over to the Visitors Center where they have moved a collection of old buildings.
Day 27: Opelousas to New Roads, LA. (57 miles) It felt good to move on today. The beginning of the course meanders along the perimeter of the Thistlewaite Wildlife Management Area which was virtually traffic-free. I had lunch at Lebeau, LA. where I enjoyed the best spaghetti. I took some pictures of a 135 lb. snapping turtle on display. One of the locals had caught it in a nearby channel..and I've been looking for the little ones! At this point I decided to deviate from the course once again and strike for the Atchafalaya river crossing in Melville and save 62 miles. The actual route goes another day north to avoid the ferry but I can feel a big storm brewing. Unfortunately once I arrived I learned that the ferry had been out for two days and will be for 2 more months. The dilemma before me was to tack on another 70 miles or to sneak across the railroad bridge. I sacked out on the river for a short power nap and waited for the bridge operator to raise it for a passing boat. Gambling that a train wasn't going to be coming soon, I shot across the metal catwalk for 1/4 mile as soon as the center was lowered and slid down the other side, just missing treading on a big snake, and onto a dirt road. I followed the most heavily-used, but unmarked route for about 5-6 miles until I returned to the pavement. At this point I could smell the rain coming and the clouds looked threatening. Just before I entered Morganza the downpour started and it didn't quit for the rest of the night. I squished into New Roads, LA nearly in the dark (although it was only 4:30) and checked into the first motel I saw. I got drenched two more times when I ran to and from dinner later. The motel clerk said there were tornado warning in effect for the evening. I will spend the next several days here while I kill time waiting for Tracy to arrive across the Mississippi river in St. Francisville.
Day 28: Day off in New Roads, LA. I'm sitting in the library in New Roads as I wait for both Tracy and Curt to arrive. Tracy will come in on Sunday afternoon via Baton Rouge and stay until Tuesday morning; Curt is riding from De Ridder, LA., but has wisely opted not to try crossing the railroad trestle at Melville and plans on arriving by Monday.
As of this entry later the same day, I am sitting in the business room of a motel across from the Baton Rouge Airport and will fly home in the morning. Shortly after lunch I recieved some tragic personal news that my daughter, Erinn, age 22, was found dead in her home; Her former boyfriend was also dead at the scene. I've spoken with the Coroners office and the Homicide detective sergeant Mike Thompson, a friend of mine, in Las Vegas. The cause of death has not yet been determined, but it's being treated as a homicide pending the outcome of an autopsy in the morning. Please be in prayer for my family during this tragedy.
Sunday, April 22, 2007
Monday, April 16, 2007
Trip Journal Post 5: Day 16-20
Day 16: Camp Wood to Comfort, TX. (89 miles) We're going to slip off course today as we strike for Bastrop, TX and continue through the hill country. At Leakey, TX we stopped for and early lunch. I went to the library and made the last entry. Curt left earlier for Medina. I couldn't catch him at Vanderpool, where I, hopefully, shot a picture of a white goat laying in a field of Blue Bonnets. That section had some of the steepest grades I've climbed so far, but it was also one of the prettiest. Dense vegetation, dark oaks, and plenty of creeks and rivers throughout the day. With tired legs and sore bottoms, we met in Medina and headed north on 480 to Center Point (of the Hill Country, I guess) where we had dinner and lost the last of the light. We pedaled the 9 miles into Comfort in the dark. At 9:30 PM we checked into the Executive Inn in Comfort, one of the places not listed on our official bike map. It was another tough day of strong headwinds. On some of the climbs, I was brought to a complete standstill as I was hit with yet another blast! When I researched this route it was recommended to travel West to East because of the Gulf Stream (aka prevailing winds), but I'm beginning to think it only applies to aviators!! The wind has been the single most important factor throughout this trip. It will either make us or break us! We turned over 1100 total miles today.
Day 17: Comfort to Blanco, TX. (52 miles) Curt's rear end is really bad today; mine, only slightly better. We decided to take it easier today and enjoyed the more arid part of Hill Country. We will soon be back on the flat...I'm not looking forward to that. We ate breakfast in Comfort before we headed out, and skidded into the DQ as soon as we crossed the pretty Guadalupe River in Blanco. We camped right on the river at the Blanco State Park, had a Margarita at the nearby Mexican restaurant, and I slept like a log.
Day 18: Blanco to San Marcos, TX (36 miles) It was chilly and damp as we broke camp this morning. We met a large group of bicyclist from Timberland Adventures at the Bowling Alley Cafe in Blanco. The food was terrible but the company was good. We decided to deviate from the route again as Curt might have a cold coming on as well as his backside troubles. We're heading for San Marcos for another "easy"day, but it's hilly and yet another 20 mph headwind! We had lunch just outside San Marcos and then rode on into town. I had to stop at a bike shop for some gloves..lost one of them yesterday. Curt had a pretty rough day and is looking forward to a break and to Debbie meeting him in Bastrop.
Day 19: San Marcos to Bastrop (41 miles) We headed out Hwy 21 after breakfast at IHOP. It started drizzling shortly thereafter. It turned into a steady rain which continued all day. I forged ahead most of the day. The headwind was only 5-8 mph today. Curt seemed to rally today. Drenched, we checked into the Comfort Inn, did some bike maintenance, and get Curt on the mend. I'm going to hang here an extra day since our visitation schedules with our ladies will both cause a slight delay in the progress. Curt will stay here until Saturday, April 21st; I will move on Thursday the 19th, giving me 10 days to St. Francesville, where Tracy will meet me on the 29th.
Day 20: Bastrop, TX (Day Off) I watched the news aftermath about the Virginia Tech shooting this morning. In typical fashion, the media is demanding stricter gun control and blaming the adminstrators and law enforcement for the tragedy. The media is far more deadly to our society than guns will ever be! Sorry, I'm glad my news comes in small doses.
Curt is feeling the cold moving into his lungs so he's staying close to the motel. I rode into Bastrop to copy the maps for our seperation period and to update the blog. I apologize to all of you that have left comments. Thanks to all my family members for taking the time to look and reconnect! I haven't intentionally ignored you. The libraries set a time limit on their computers and, since my typing is slow, I'm usually getting kicked off before I post the next entry.
Day 17: Comfort to Blanco, TX. (52 miles) Curt's rear end is really bad today; mine, only slightly better. We decided to take it easier today and enjoyed the more arid part of Hill Country. We will soon be back on the flat...I'm not looking forward to that. We ate breakfast in Comfort before we headed out, and skidded into the DQ as soon as we crossed the pretty Guadalupe River in Blanco. We camped right on the river at the Blanco State Park, had a Margarita at the nearby Mexican restaurant, and I slept like a log.
Day 18: Blanco to San Marcos, TX (36 miles) It was chilly and damp as we broke camp this morning. We met a large group of bicyclist from Timberland Adventures at the Bowling Alley Cafe in Blanco. The food was terrible but the company was good. We decided to deviate from the route again as Curt might have a cold coming on as well as his backside troubles. We're heading for San Marcos for another "easy"day, but it's hilly and yet another 20 mph headwind! We had lunch just outside San Marcos and then rode on into town. I had to stop at a bike shop for some gloves..lost one of them yesterday. Curt had a pretty rough day and is looking forward to a break and to Debbie meeting him in Bastrop.
Day 19: San Marcos to Bastrop (41 miles) We headed out Hwy 21 after breakfast at IHOP. It started drizzling shortly thereafter. It turned into a steady rain which continued all day. I forged ahead most of the day. The headwind was only 5-8 mph today. Curt seemed to rally today. Drenched, we checked into the Comfort Inn, did some bike maintenance, and get Curt on the mend. I'm going to hang here an extra day since our visitation schedules with our ladies will both cause a slight delay in the progress. Curt will stay here until Saturday, April 21st; I will move on Thursday the 19th, giving me 10 days to St. Francesville, where Tracy will meet me on the 29th.
Day 20: Bastrop, TX (Day Off) I watched the news aftermath about the Virginia Tech shooting this morning. In typical fashion, the media is demanding stricter gun control and blaming the adminstrators and law enforcement for the tragedy. The media is far more deadly to our society than guns will ever be! Sorry, I'm glad my news comes in small doses.
Curt is feeling the cold moving into his lungs so he's staying close to the motel. I rode into Bastrop to copy the maps for our seperation period and to update the blog. I apologize to all of you that have left comments. Thanks to all my family members for taking the time to look and reconnect! I haven't intentionally ignored you. The libraries set a time limit on their computers and, since my typing is slow, I'm usually getting kicked off before I post the next entry.
Friday, April 13, 2007
Trip Journal Post 4: Day 12-15
Day 12: Alpine to Sanderson (86 miles) (Trip Total 724 m) The wind has finally turned in our favor as we left Alpine this morning. We literally set sail east to Marathon with a 25mph tailwind. I sprinted a couple times to prepare for the hill country ahead and reached a new personal record, on the flat, of 27.4mph! After guzzling a Gatorade, we caught the breeze again to Sanderson, arriving about noon. Curt and I were having lunch at the "No Name Cafe" and visiting with two Texas couple sitting next to us. Before they left they insisted on having prayer together and then we found out just after they left that they had bought our lunch. We set up camp in an nearby RV park. I tried to get Curt to push another 60 miles to Langtry, but in hind-sight, it would've been a big mistake. Just after we set up camp another cyclist, Mike Drackert, came pulling in and struck camp with us. He's traveling alone east to west with a Bob trailer and has a website (web.mac.com/mdrackert). We sat around visiting at dinner in the No Name again and had dinner with a BMW F650 motorcyclist. We ended the evening playing Yahtzee, which I've been keeping in my running shoes throughout the whole trip.
Day 13: Sanderson to Amistad National Recreation Area near Del Rio (111 miles) (Total 835m)
We said our goodbyes to Mike this morning and got off to a later start than usual. Nothing was open so it was an energy bar breakfast Today began the training for the Lance Armstrong Texas Hill Country! It was sunny, hot, and calm on the way to Dryden. We had a sad little lunch of BBQ goat sandwich in an extremely unfriendly little roadside grocery. Afterward we took a short diversion to the Judge Roy Bean Visitors Center and shot a few pics. They had a great display of old buildings and a grand cactus garden...but we were both hoping for a power nap location instead! 29 miles later we rolled into Comstock, where we were suppose to camp, but everything had dried up there. No motel, no camping, no restaurant! There was no choice but to push on to the outskirts of Del Rio to the Amistad Recreational Area or to "Gorilla camp". We agreed it was not a day to go without a shower. Once we reached the Amistad, we realized they didn't have a shower facility either so we stopped at the first RV park and begged a campsite. The managers wife took pity on us when we found out the nearest food was 5 miles away and went to Whataburger for us. A shower never felt so good! And, I'm reminded of Doc's De Lorean in the movie "Back to the Future 2" where he stops and stuffs garbage into the fuel tank...lately that's all I've been putting into my engine!
Day 14: Amistad to Del Rio, TX. (10 miles) We took out time getting repacked this morning and trekked into Del Rio, where we had previously planned to take an extra day off. It was just the right day too because the wind was blowing at 30+ right out of the east. We ate breakfast at IHOP, checked into a nearby Motel 6, walked to the Walmart where we downloaded the pictures onto CD's to send home. Curt got shone at the mall and we caught the movie "Shooter", which was based on some novels I have read about a character, Bob Lee Swagger. Everything was within walking distance, including the Pizza Hut buffet we ate for dinner.
Day 15: Del Rio to Camp Wood, TX. (82 miles) Well, we hit the beginning of the Hill Country today! It was really pretty riding, but got hot and muggy. We ate an early lunch in Brackenville, TX (after 34 miles) and headed for Camp Wood. At about the halfway point, we crossed the west fork of the Neuses River, which actually was running across the road. I rode through, parked my bike on the rocks, stripped out of my riding gear and into running shorts, and was sitting in the river when Curt arrived. We snapped some pics but Curt didn't want to swim. I jumped in again and reluctantly dried off and pedaled another 25 miles to dinner on Camp Wood. I tried to get the blog updated there, but the library closed 10 minutes later. We rolled down to the Rockin River campground on the nearby Neuses River. About 10 minutes after we set up camp the owner, Chuck, told us there was a tornado watch for the evening and that he would open a cabin for us if we wanted to break camp. Withing 30 minutes the wind was howling, and inch-sized hail started pelting everything. We were safely in the cabin by then, along with our bikes. The wind howled all night long. When we got up this morning it was still blowing as we headed out to Camp Wood for breakfast. Chuck was in the cafe so I bought him breakfast in appreciation for his generosity! I'm currently sitting in a public library in Leakey, TX. (In case you've been wondering why I haven't been complaining about my rearend, it's because I have been adjusting to the mileage, diligently washing my riding shorts, and contentiously keeping my sore butt clean and lubed with Lanaseptic! Thanks for the tips, Rob Herber...I read the email!)We aren't sure where we will end this day, as the strong headwind and the hill country slows our forward momentum. That's for Day 16's entry anyway!
Day 13: Sanderson to Amistad National Recreation Area near Del Rio (111 miles) (Total 835m)
We said our goodbyes to Mike this morning and got off to a later start than usual. Nothing was open so it was an energy bar breakfast Today began the training for the Lance Armstrong Texas Hill Country! It was sunny, hot, and calm on the way to Dryden. We had a sad little lunch of BBQ goat sandwich in an extremely unfriendly little roadside grocery. Afterward we took a short diversion to the Judge Roy Bean Visitors Center and shot a few pics. They had a great display of old buildings and a grand cactus garden...but we were both hoping for a power nap location instead! 29 miles later we rolled into Comstock, where we were suppose to camp, but everything had dried up there. No motel, no camping, no restaurant! There was no choice but to push on to the outskirts of Del Rio to the Amistad Recreational Area or to "Gorilla camp". We agreed it was not a day to go without a shower. Once we reached the Amistad, we realized they didn't have a shower facility either so we stopped at the first RV park and begged a campsite. The managers wife took pity on us when we found out the nearest food was 5 miles away and went to Whataburger for us. A shower never felt so good! And, I'm reminded of Doc's De Lorean in the movie "Back to the Future 2" where he stops and stuffs garbage into the fuel tank...lately that's all I've been putting into my engine!
Day 14: Amistad to Del Rio, TX. (10 miles) We took out time getting repacked this morning and trekked into Del Rio, where we had previously planned to take an extra day off. It was just the right day too because the wind was blowing at 30+ right out of the east. We ate breakfast at IHOP, checked into a nearby Motel 6, walked to the Walmart where we downloaded the pictures onto CD's to send home. Curt got shone at the mall and we caught the movie "Shooter", which was based on some novels I have read about a character, Bob Lee Swagger. Everything was within walking distance, including the Pizza Hut buffet we ate for dinner.
Day 15: Del Rio to Camp Wood, TX. (82 miles) Well, we hit the beginning of the Hill Country today! It was really pretty riding, but got hot and muggy. We ate an early lunch in Brackenville, TX (after 34 miles) and headed for Camp Wood. At about the halfway point, we crossed the west fork of the Neuses River, which actually was running across the road. I rode through, parked my bike on the rocks, stripped out of my riding gear and into running shorts, and was sitting in the river when Curt arrived. We snapped some pics but Curt didn't want to swim. I jumped in again and reluctantly dried off and pedaled another 25 miles to dinner on Camp Wood. I tried to get the blog updated there, but the library closed 10 minutes later. We rolled down to the Rockin River campground on the nearby Neuses River. About 10 minutes after we set up camp the owner, Chuck, told us there was a tornado watch for the evening and that he would open a cabin for us if we wanted to break camp. Withing 30 minutes the wind was howling, and inch-sized hail started pelting everything. We were safely in the cabin by then, along with our bikes. The wind howled all night long. When we got up this morning it was still blowing as we headed out to Camp Wood for breakfast. Chuck was in the cafe so I bought him breakfast in appreciation for his generosity! I'm currently sitting in a public library in Leakey, TX. (In case you've been wondering why I haven't been complaining about my rearend, it's because I have been adjusting to the mileage, diligently washing my riding shorts, and contentiously keeping my sore butt clean and lubed with Lanaseptic! Thanks for the tips, Rob Herber...I read the email!)We aren't sure where we will end this day, as the strong headwind and the hill country slows our forward momentum. That's for Day 16's entry anyway!
Monday, April 9, 2007
Trip Journal Post 3: Days 10-11
Day 10: Van Horn to Marfa, TX (76 miles) Because of the wind, we chose to deviate from the course this morning taking 90 south instead of I-10 to Kent. It was still cold and foggy when we left and I got a great picture of Curt riding along, smoking a cigar, with his nose dripping. At about 20 miles into it I had a front flat. It was a quick repair and we continued on for another 30 minutes. I was getting hot so we both decided to strip off our rain jackets. While we were stopped, a young couple in a grey VW bug with a road bike on top stopped to make sure we were okay. It turned out the girl was from Alpine, was a triathelete, and both seemed genuinely interested in our trip and bikes. At about 35 miles after Van Horn, I rolled up on the strangest art exhibit I have ever seen. In the middle of a flat, dry, uninhabited prairie is a small building with a plate glass front displaying Prada shoes and purses. Nothing for sale, just an art display. Of course, we got some pics. We ate some power bars since there was no where to eat lunch. It took hours to pass a single ranch (Ryan). I read that this area is where Dallas was filmed and Marfa has some strange reoccurring light phenomenon. Today was Easter Sunday and I nearly forgot! I scared up a buck antelope and put on a burst of speed, fumbling for my camera, as it ran along a fence-line. I hope I caught it on the digital. There were herds of antelope along the route. A vicious headwind hit us 5 miles from Marfa. We really had to dig down to reach town, wolfed a hot, greasy meal at DQ, and checked into the Riatta motel with 608 miles under our belts.
Day 11: Marfa to Alpine, TX (26 miles) You're probably wondering about the measly 27 miles, huh? Okay, here's how this day went: We left Marfa without breakfast and in a hurry to beat the expected wind. We had a short climb and then a drop through a beautiful, rocky canyon. I saw my first Javelina, dead of the road, and scared two Golden Eagles from a roadside tree. I wanted to see how fast I could push the loaded Koga today and actually hit 27 mph on the flat. Arriving in Alpine, I asked about a good restaurant for brunch and was directed to Mc Goo's. While we ate we talked to the owner, Joe Torres, who insisted that we should see Big Bend National Park (108 miles away). We told him we didn't have time on this trip, and he insisted that we borrow his new Camry. Curt and I knew we had some extra time since Debbie is coming into Austin after we will arrive so we gladly accepted the generous offer. What a great guy! I did the driving; Curt did the dozing. We saw Chisos Canyon, Panther Junction, all the cactus flowers in bloom, and snapped plenty of pics. We left Joe two 18 packs of Coors Longnecks on the seat(his son's girlfriend said it was his favorite), filled the tank, and returned the car to his restaurant. I'm sitting at the computer in the Lobo bar in Alpine where there is no shortage of friendly folks!
Day 11: Marfa to Alpine, TX (26 miles) You're probably wondering about the measly 27 miles, huh? Okay, here's how this day went: We left Marfa without breakfast and in a hurry to beat the expected wind. We had a short climb and then a drop through a beautiful, rocky canyon. I saw my first Javelina, dead of the road, and scared two Golden Eagles from a roadside tree. I wanted to see how fast I could push the loaded Koga today and actually hit 27 mph on the flat. Arriving in Alpine, I asked about a good restaurant for brunch and was directed to Mc Goo's. While we ate we talked to the owner, Joe Torres, who insisted that we should see Big Bend National Park (108 miles away). We told him we didn't have time on this trip, and he insisted that we borrow his new Camry. Curt and I knew we had some extra time since Debbie is coming into Austin after we will arrive so we gladly accepted the generous offer. What a great guy! I did the driving; Curt did the dozing. We saw Chisos Canyon, Panther Junction, all the cactus flowers in bloom, and snapped plenty of pics. We left Joe two 18 packs of Coors Longnecks on the seat(his son's girlfriend said it was his favorite), filled the tank, and returned the car to his restaurant. I'm sitting at the computer in the Lobo bar in Alpine where there is no shortage of friendly folks!
Friday, April 6, 2007
Trip Journal Post 2: Day 5-9
Day 5: Silver City to Arrey, NM (83 miles) We left Silver City, NM pedaling deep rolling hills until it turned into a gradual climb into the foothills. The highest mountain pass on the entire Southern Tier was just ahead. The ascent was broken up by some very fast downhills where we repeatedly lost hard earned elevation gains. I hung with Curt throughout all the climbs today. I'm getting stronger each day. We topped Emory Pass (8228') about noon and FLEW the 19 miles down to Hillsboro. The only restaurant flipped the closed sign at our approach so it was a bag of chips only. There was a new place soon to open and the owner gave us a tour of a beautifully renovated adobe motel and restaurant. I don't recall the name, but it will be a great place to stay for future cyclists and she has already submitted her info to Adventure Cycling. We came out of that valley into a headwind and pushed our way to the state campgrounds along the Rio Grande in Arrey, NM. We had a great time visiting with all the curious locals in the Arrey Cafe for both dinner and breakfast. We pitched camp on a pile of Goatheads that filled my shoes, and threatened to flatten both tires and sleeping pads.
Day 6: Arrey, NM to Las Cruces, NM (57 miles) The sunny, warm weather continued to hold with winds out of the south at 8-12 mph. I awoke to a front flat (not Goatheads, some steel belts wire instead) which I fixed in short order. We finally started at around 0900; the wind started at 1100 and there wasn't anything until Las Cruces so we pushed on. We made Cruces at 1430 and checked into a cheap but very comfortable motel, the Teakwood. My rearend is nearly raw with no relief in sight! If this continues I won't be able to ride much longer. I WILL be replacing this seat with a Brooks in the future.
Day 7: Las Cruces, NM to Fabens, TX. (78 miles) The Lord blessed me with a miracle; My rearend recovered during the night and I was easily able to complete the mileage today. Today was miles of well-manicured Pecan orchards and cotton fields. We reached El Paso at lunchtime, crossing into Texas, but without a photo since there wasn't a border sign. Yesterday I developed a rattling noise somewhere near my bottom bracket. Since my rear cassette came apart on the last training ride, I've been nervous. (This intermittent noise is only while under pressure on the right-side pedal down stroke.) Chris worked on my bike immediately. He wasn't able to locate the problem, but, since he pulled it apart, it's gone. We fooled around in El Paso for 2 hours and headed to Fabens, TX. where we checked into a motel and, as usual, went to bed early and tired.
Day 8: Fabens to Van Horn, TX (65 miles riding, 33 more as passengers!) Trip total is over 500 miles.) We were shooting for 98 miles today, hoping to make up for some mileage shortages on prior days. We left the motel at 0715, skipping breakfast to put in the pedal time.The wind was not going to cooperate though. It started out at 8 mph, but quickly kicked up to 20 to Fort Hancock, and eventually 30 mph to Sierra Blanca, slowing us to a crawl. (Curt has the roughest time in the wind because of his lighter weight.) We ate lunch in a dumpy restaurant and considered our problem. The wind nearly stopped our progress and the temperature was beginning to drop. I suggested that we hitch a ride to Van Horn as resources in Sierra Blanca were slim and seedy. We rolled across the street to a Chevron, I asked a guy that had just pulled up in a pickup, and he took us east for an additional 33 miles.
Day 9: Van Horn, TX (0 miles) We had to take a day off here in Van Horn. We awoke to rain and 15 mph NE winds which continues as I type. The temperature according to Accuweather is Real Feel of 21 degrees because of the wind chill. Apparently Texas, along with much of the country is having a return of winter weather. Guess we will rest up and regroup for the road ahead. There are few services for next few days so it's probably just as well. The only services here are a dollar store, bars, motels, and restaurants. I'm not sure what keeps towns like Van Horn alive. The weather forecast for tomorrow shows warmer temps but higher winds. If that is accurate, we will deviate from the established route, turning south on 90, to avoid the direct head wind and reevaluate at Alpine, TX. In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood, "improvise, adapt, overcome."
Mind: Most of the time I'm scanning the road for obstacles and for terrain changes ahead. Much of the time is also spent maintaining a consistent level of exertion and even pace. I often catch myself singing the same song repeatedly, kinda like a mantra. It's amazing the amount of lyrics to dumb songs that I can remember. So much for deep thinking! I worry about how things are going at home and miss Tracy and the boys. Waxing philosophical yesterday, I considered how much this trip is like life-I expect the hills to be hard, but even the downhills are difficult when a strong wind is in your face.
Body: My conditioning is improving daily. I doubt that I have lost a single pound unless peeling skin counts. I sheared my hair off before the start and the sun has burnt right through the holes in the helmet so even my head in peeling. Although my legs are tired at days end, they recover quickly. My rearend is bruised and welted, but slowly recovering. Both of us have had an odd burning sensation in the balls of our left feet, especially after long upgrades.
Soul: We have seen a wide variety of beautiful country in the last week. It's hard to imagine anything but the wonder of God's creation out here. I feel His presence giving us safe passage.
Day 6: Arrey, NM to Las Cruces, NM (57 miles) The sunny, warm weather continued to hold with winds out of the south at 8-12 mph. I awoke to a front flat (not Goatheads, some steel belts wire instead) which I fixed in short order. We finally started at around 0900; the wind started at 1100 and there wasn't anything until Las Cruces so we pushed on. We made Cruces at 1430 and checked into a cheap but very comfortable motel, the Teakwood. My rearend is nearly raw with no relief in sight! If this continues I won't be able to ride much longer. I WILL be replacing this seat with a Brooks in the future.
Day 7: Las Cruces, NM to Fabens, TX. (78 miles) The Lord blessed me with a miracle; My rearend recovered during the night and I was easily able to complete the mileage today. Today was miles of well-manicured Pecan orchards and cotton fields. We reached El Paso at lunchtime, crossing into Texas, but without a photo since there wasn't a border sign. Yesterday I developed a rattling noise somewhere near my bottom bracket. Since my rear cassette came apart on the last training ride, I've been nervous. (This intermittent noise is only while under pressure on the right-side pedal down stroke.) Chris worked on my bike immediately. He wasn't able to locate the problem, but, since he pulled it apart, it's gone. We fooled around in El Paso for 2 hours and headed to Fabens, TX. where we checked into a motel and, as usual, went to bed early and tired.
Day 8: Fabens to Van Horn, TX (65 miles riding, 33 more as passengers!) Trip total is over 500 miles.) We were shooting for 98 miles today, hoping to make up for some mileage shortages on prior days. We left the motel at 0715, skipping breakfast to put in the pedal time.The wind was not going to cooperate though. It started out at 8 mph, but quickly kicked up to 20 to Fort Hancock, and eventually 30 mph to Sierra Blanca, slowing us to a crawl. (Curt has the roughest time in the wind because of his lighter weight.) We ate lunch in a dumpy restaurant and considered our problem. The wind nearly stopped our progress and the temperature was beginning to drop. I suggested that we hitch a ride to Van Horn as resources in Sierra Blanca were slim and seedy. We rolled across the street to a Chevron, I asked a guy that had just pulled up in a pickup, and he took us east for an additional 33 miles.
Day 9: Van Horn, TX (0 miles) We had to take a day off here in Van Horn. We awoke to rain and 15 mph NE winds which continues as I type. The temperature according to Accuweather is Real Feel of 21 degrees because of the wind chill. Apparently Texas, along with much of the country is having a return of winter weather. Guess we will rest up and regroup for the road ahead. There are few services for next few days so it's probably just as well. The only services here are a dollar store, bars, motels, and restaurants. I'm not sure what keeps towns like Van Horn alive. The weather forecast for tomorrow shows warmer temps but higher winds. If that is accurate, we will deviate from the established route, turning south on 90, to avoid the direct head wind and reevaluate at Alpine, TX. In the immortal words of Clint Eastwood, "improvise, adapt, overcome."
Mind: Most of the time I'm scanning the road for obstacles and for terrain changes ahead. Much of the time is also spent maintaining a consistent level of exertion and even pace. I often catch myself singing the same song repeatedly, kinda like a mantra. It's amazing the amount of lyrics to dumb songs that I can remember. So much for deep thinking! I worry about how things are going at home and miss Tracy and the boys. Waxing philosophical yesterday, I considered how much this trip is like life-I expect the hills to be hard, but even the downhills are difficult when a strong wind is in your face.
Body: My conditioning is improving daily. I doubt that I have lost a single pound unless peeling skin counts. I sheared my hair off before the start and the sun has burnt right through the holes in the helmet so even my head in peeling. Although my legs are tired at days end, they recover quickly. My rearend is bruised and welted, but slowly recovering. Both of us have had an odd burning sensation in the balls of our left feet, especially after long upgrades.
Soul: We have seen a wide variety of beautiful country in the last week. It's hard to imagine anything but the wonder of God's creation out here. I feel His presence giving us safe passage.
Monday, April 2, 2007
Trip Journal Post 1: Day 1-4
Day 1: Apache Junction to Peridot, AZ. (78 miles) At the moment I'm sitting in a motel lobby in Silver City, New Mexico. We left Apache Junction, Az on March 30th, 2007 after driving down the previous evening. We met my Uncle Dan Rodgers and family for dinner and they also came to see us off the following morning. With their encouragement and some final photos, we sailed eastward. The climb to Globe was easier than expected, but there was an element of terror because of the narrow bridges, no shoulders, and a tunnel with an uphill climb! Aside from that it was a fantastic day of riding. We logged 78 miles and "gorilla" camped along the San Carlos river near Peridot, Az. During the night ice formed on the top of my sleeping bag and we learned the following morning that it had dipped well below freezing. (We also learned that it's better to pitch the tents, especially when there's a full moon. It was like sleeping under a stadium light!)
Day 2: Peridot to Thatcher (65 miles) We met an elderly English couple, the Spiveys, at the grocery store in Peridot. Their bikes were 30 years old or older and their combined luggage was less than either ONE of ours! They are doing the Southern Tier and have done many other long distance tours. That evening Curt holed up to watch the final four college basketball at the motel; I went exploring with an unloaded bike and did my laundry in Safford, Az.
Day 3: Thatcher to Buckhorn (80 miles) We overtook the Spiveys during the climb to a 4800' pass and rode with them through the fast descent into 3 Way, Az. It was truly a pleasure visiting with them, but I fear it will be our last as they're traveling at a more leisurely pace. They were scheduled to camp at 3 Way so, after lunch, we parted company and began the strenuous climb to a 6300' pass. I watched Curt recede into the distance and settled into the most grueling climb so far. I finally reached the top to find Curt there waiting. He had finished his final water bottle so I split my last one and we hoped for water ahead in Mule Creek, 12 miles away. Somewhere in between we crossed the state line into New Mexico, where we took advantage of a photo opportunity. At Mule Creek we had to sneak around a unoccupied house to get water from a hose bib. With full bottles we pushed the last 19 miles to Buckhorn, just skidding in before dark. We wolfed down pizza at the grocery store and set up camp under the full moon. Yes, I learned my lesson and pitched a tent. We met three more travelers going east at the campground but they are staying in Silver City, NM for a rest day.
Day 4: Buckhorn to Silver City (37 Miles) Today was to be considered a recovery ride after yesterdays' tough course. We must be prepared for the most difficult climb on the entire Southern Tier, Emery Pass (8228') tomorrow. Today turned out to be harder than we expected with rolling hills all the way into Silver City, NM. Curt was snoozing as I left to make this entry. I will continue to update as the opportunity arises.
Day 2: Peridot to Thatcher (65 miles) We met an elderly English couple, the Spiveys, at the grocery store in Peridot. Their bikes were 30 years old or older and their combined luggage was less than either ONE of ours! They are doing the Southern Tier and have done many other long distance tours. That evening Curt holed up to watch the final four college basketball at the motel; I went exploring with an unloaded bike and did my laundry in Safford, Az.
Day 3: Thatcher to Buckhorn (80 miles) We overtook the Spiveys during the climb to a 4800' pass and rode with them through the fast descent into 3 Way, Az. It was truly a pleasure visiting with them, but I fear it will be our last as they're traveling at a more leisurely pace. They were scheduled to camp at 3 Way so, after lunch, we parted company and began the strenuous climb to a 6300' pass. I watched Curt recede into the distance and settled into the most grueling climb so far. I finally reached the top to find Curt there waiting. He had finished his final water bottle so I split my last one and we hoped for water ahead in Mule Creek, 12 miles away. Somewhere in between we crossed the state line into New Mexico, where we took advantage of a photo opportunity. At Mule Creek we had to sneak around a unoccupied house to get water from a hose bib. With full bottles we pushed the last 19 miles to Buckhorn, just skidding in before dark. We wolfed down pizza at the grocery store and set up camp under the full moon. Yes, I learned my lesson and pitched a tent. We met three more travelers going east at the campground but they are staying in Silver City, NM for a rest day.
Day 4: Buckhorn to Silver City (37 Miles) Today was to be considered a recovery ride after yesterdays' tough course. We must be prepared for the most difficult climb on the entire Southern Tier, Emery Pass (8228') tomorrow. Today turned out to be harder than we expected with rolling hills all the way into Silver City, NM. Curt was snoozing as I left to make this entry. I will continue to update as the opportunity arises.
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
The Final Trip List
This is by no means a complete list for any trek, but it contains the items I have chosen to take on this one.
Clothes: sun/rain hat, rain jacket, rain pants, heavy shirt, tights, 2 l/s shirts, 2 jerseys, 3 shorts, 1 sleeveless shirt, 1 convertible pant, 3 sox, glove liners, beanie cap, extra shoes, shower shoes, toiletries.
Camp stuff: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, headlamp, stove, cook pot, spoon, fork, cup, fuel cannister(s), matches, four meals.
Tools: chain lube, 2 spare tubes, patch kit, extra tire, electrical tape, lock tite, cresent wrench spoke wrench, mulitple Allen wrenches, chain tool, pedal and hub wrench, needle nose pliers, spare cables. spare spokes.
Bike stuff: cable lock, head light, spare batteries, bungee cords, helmet, 2 headsweats, gloves, sunglasses, 3 water bottles, 6 energy bars.
Personal stuff: medications, glasses, first aid kit, GPS, maps, journals, cell phone, camera, pocket knife, H2O purification tablets, chapstick, sunscreen, address book, credit cards, some cash, phone card
Clothes: sun/rain hat, rain jacket, rain pants, heavy shirt, tights, 2 l/s shirts, 2 jerseys, 3 shorts, 1 sleeveless shirt, 1 convertible pant, 3 sox, glove liners, beanie cap, extra shoes, shower shoes, toiletries.
Camp stuff: tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, headlamp, stove, cook pot, spoon, fork, cup, fuel cannister(s), matches, four meals.
Tools: chain lube, 2 spare tubes, patch kit, extra tire, electrical tape, lock tite, cresent wrench spoke wrench, mulitple Allen wrenches, chain tool, pedal and hub wrench, needle nose pliers, spare cables. spare spokes.
Bike stuff: cable lock, head light, spare batteries, bungee cords, helmet, 2 headsweats, gloves, sunglasses, 3 water bottles, 6 energy bars.
Personal stuff: medications, glasses, first aid kit, GPS, maps, journals, cell phone, camera, pocket knife, H2O purification tablets, chapstick, sunscreen, address book, credit cards, some cash, phone card
Thursday, March 8, 2007
On Bike Selection
Touring bikes can come in many flavors. When I started surfing the Net for touring bikes the Ken Kifer, Downtheroad, and, eventually, the Commuter Bike sites led to my selection of the Koga World Traveller. One of the main reasons was it's reliability and the possibility of several long treks in the next few years. I wanted a solid bike, designed specifically for touring, outfitted with bullet-proof components. The Koga fit that bill. It has longer chainstays allowing your feet ample room to rotate on the crank without hitting the panniers. Eric Schwartz, owner of the Commuter bikes in Santa Barbara, was truly a pleasure to work with and made even made the drive there well worth the effort. Curt and I drove down to get fitted for the Koga's and I was astonished at the amount of time both Eric and James spent orienting us with the bikes and fine tuning them. I would highly recommend them for any serious bike purchases and intend to use them for any of my own. Eric has continued to be a terrific support throughout the planning stages of this trek. For instance, Curt's bike was run over and Eric was able to send a replacement fork and front Tubus rack immediately so our training schedule was barely effected. He has offered to overnight any parts we may need on the voyage as well. I've purchased many bicycles over the years and I can say that I've never received that quality of service. I've added a link to the Commuter Bikes.
Wednesday, March 7, 2007
Tips on Our Training
Preparing for this tour has been challenging in many ways, training being one of the most important. Curt and I picked up the bikes in December and began with hour long sessions. Both of us were already aerobically fit. By early January we were biking around an hour and a half every other day. At the mid-point we added full panniers to acclimate to the increased demands of touring. By the end of the month, we were biking either to or from Mesquite (35 miles) and threw in a trip to Vegas a couple times (60 miles). In February we continued to rapidly increase the distance and slowly increase the average speed, weather permitting. Biking for several hours became the norm and as the end of the month approached, the trips to Vegas and to Mesquite and back increased, as did our speed. We included one camping voyage to Zion, parking in Bloomington, Utah and pushed for 50 miles until we reached the park entrance. I was surprised at the costs we incurred in that two day trip ( $25 camping fee, $12 Zion Park entrance fee, dinner was $25, breakfast $11, two lunches totaling $12, misc. $3). March has been more of the same. We have tried to ride two days consecutively and then take a rest day. Because of two different schedules that hasn't always been the case, but I'm confident we are ready for the beginning of this adventure. I was spent early in the training, especially after a 60 miler. Not anymore though. Some conditioning took place along the way; the rest will come during the ride.
Saturday, March 3, 2007
On Saddle Sores
I made my most important and quite possibly my final purchase for the trip last night. Although I have read a great deal of information on bike touring over the last couple months, little has mentioned the exceedingly important impact of the bike seat on the tender points of contact on your backside. My Koga World Traveller comes standard with a stiff Brooks leather saddle. Rumor has it that once "broken in", it's quite comfortable. Eric Schwartz, owner of the Commuter Bike Shop in Santa Barbara, provided another option in the Selle SMP, which seemed to fit immediately.There is, however, no replacement for accumulated saddle time, and, of equal importance, adequate bike shorts. Personally, I find the road bike style shorts embarrassing and somewhat offensive to the general public; mountain bike style have a looser fit and would blend easier for touring purposes, but I haven't found any that provide the snug fit and padding necessary to endure long hours in the saddle. Defeated by extreme discomfort, the problem led me back to lycra Trek road shorts with plenty of chamois, supplemented by Chamois Butter to reduce abrasion when (not if) I can no longer tolerate the agony. I recommend the very best shorts you can find, consider it money well spent, and take a light pair of outer shorts if you can't tolerate the public exposure!
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